The hardest of the low-angle routes on the west-facing wall.

Left

Left Flake

Left Center

South Face Center Right

Center

South Face Right

Right Center

Backside Roof

South Face Left

Rhein-Dance

Ocean's Eleven

Arete

Easy Boulder

Start at the base of the flake all the way to the left where the beach meets the hillside.  Follow the flake up and to the right until it ends.  The crux is the last move on the flake, maybe 5.8.  Then traverse right  for a few feet and follow the regular Left Route up to the two anchor bolts below the big ledge just below the top. Then traverse right on friction and crimps just below the ledge until you are underneath the toprope anchor.  Then up and over the ledge to the top!

5.9 variation: instead of traversing right after the flake head straight up until you hit the ledge.  This way doesn't see much traffic and is a little mossy and/or sandy.

Slightly easier than the left-most route.

Use the middle anchors. Start as if going up to the roof, but instead stay to the right. Use a small crack and good feet up to a large jug (watch out for sharp point at bottom of jug). Crux is about 2/3's the way up at some bad holds, get past for slightly easier climbing to the anchors.

This route follows sustained thin crimps up a slight depression in the center of the west-facing wall.  Perhaps the best of the low-angle face-climbs at Point Dume.

More steep climbing on the ocean-side of the cliff.

Classic Point Dume edge-pulling at an accessible grade.  Be creative, the easiest line meanders quite a bit.

About 5.5 up most of the steep corner that leads up to the small roof. Getting over the roof is 5.7 or so. Avoid using the rusty pipe for anchoring. Walk off via same descent trail down to the beach.

Another area classic!  Steep, exposed climbing above the water.

There are actually 2 (or more) variations.  The plumb line climbs pockets up a steep face to the right-hand side of a small roof that caps the route (5.10c).  Another variation steps left at a large ledge mid-height and climbs a shallow corner before traversing back right beneath the summit cap (5.10a/b).

Climb straight up to where your rope meets the edge near the top to avoid swinging and possibly tearing into your rope or even cutting your rope! The crux is about 3/4 up on a small ledge near the right side of the face . It’s a long reach to a huge grab.  2nd crux is getting over the edge about 10 ft from the top.

Follow picture - start on tiny crack, follow up and right. Finish is same place as South Face Right.

The true standout at the cliff!  Sustained for the grade and truly aesthetic!!

Very easy "problem". Slightly overhung with large if sharp pockets/jugs. Do it barefoot just for fun cause you're on the beach.

Description

Protection

Routes in Point Dume