This is the currently the closest route to the Parking Lot. It is easy to set up a TR off the tree above the route. This has OK climbing on sandy choss. The Hole Way has only one place for a 0.3/0.2 cam in bad rock...it could be a reasonable free solo/X lead after it's cleaned more.

The Hole Way

Night Crawler

Beta Max

Chhipakalee Mandir

White Spice

Budget Corner

Pip's Gully

Morning Ride

Slab 1a

This has slab, corner, and delicate movement. The moves are actually pretty good though the rock is questionable in spots. It has good climbing and an easy TR to set up.

I felt the first crux is near the start. There is a small crimp that will help. Another slab move off small, shallow dishes will get you through the next. This has great moves and is a good practice spot for slab!

The crux is about 10 feet up making this a reasonable free solo.

Gear is sparse, but it is available where you need it, and the rock is better then one may think. Once you climb past the initial crack, there is no gear until you reach the anchor (which you have to build and drop from above...there is no fixed anchor on this) with a 15 foot runout. The climbing is pretty good, and it's a good intro climb to Devil's Canyon.

Budget Corner may be a good moderate route once it gets cleaned up a bit. This is easily accessed from the D2 trail.

Pip's Gully is an easy climb with placements in questionable rock. There is a crux about 15 feet up the line as you climb OW and stemming moves past a small pod. Bushwhack your way through the overgrowth and up to the final head wall. The last 20 feet is pretty rotten but solid enough to climb. Overall, it is a pretty fun route!

Climb an unprotected slab (5.7) to a good stance and natural anchor (#1 and #2). For the second pitch, climb a low angle, shallow and thin crack. There is a single 0.3 placement a few feet below the bulge/crux. Mantel the bulge on a very positive but questionable hold (it sounded hollow but held me at 130lbs). Then climb a low angle finger crack with a couple of solid placements up through a second, easy bulge to the top.

The crux is about 10 feet up. Set a toprope from a tree above. This is a fun slab, and it is easy to set up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Slabs