The Charmed Life

is a long pitch of desert slab. Like its neighbouring routes, it's a real calf-burner. It was bolted ground-up so the spacing may be considered a little spicy for some. Not dangerous at all, but perhaps just exciting enough to make it memorable.

Route:

Start up a shallow left-facing crescent which soon fizzles out, leaving you with a seemingly endless friction romp. Slightly crispy stone at the 3rd bolt gradually gives way to a smooth varnished slab with very few features. At the 8th bolt, surmount the undercut basalt dike and finish on an exfoliating slab.

Descent:

Rappel from the two-bolt ring anchor. Read below:

With one 60m rope you will need to stop halfway down at the top-anchor for

So Rebel

(climber's left).

With one 70m rope you can make it to the ground but you must trend climber's left to land on higher ground. -

knot your ends!!!

With two ropes you will easily make it all the way down.

To lower off and thus leave a toprope setup, keep the following things in mind:

You need a 70m rope for this.

Construct your anchor with a >20-foot length of cordelette.

Have the belayer scramble a little ways up and left along the base of the wall to a higher position.

Knot the end for safety!

The Charmed Life

History Repeats Itself

La Vena Negra

So Rebel

Ape Factor

Flying Sheep

Slaughtumn

Slip-Slidin' Away

Falling Shirkens

Spanking The Shirken

Mikey Likes It

Ashram

Beat Around the Bush

Lounge Lizard

Finish What You Started

This makes for a good introduction to the crag. Nothing special here, just classic friction moves on slick desert granite.

Pitch 1: Three bolts to top of block and set your own anchor.

Pitch 2: Some medium cams then six bolts to a two bolt anchor (crux pitch).

Pitch 3: Three bolts with 5.8 climbing.

Pitch 4: Run out 5.7 with a crack that takes small to medium wires.

Pitch 1: Seven bolts lead up to a corner, over left and up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Six bolts up and right, then left to a two bolt anchor; this is the crux pitch.

Pitch 3: Run out 5.6 past three bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4:  Run out 5.6 arching right to the top of

History Repeats Itself

, only one bolt.

Pitch 1: Climb the arete past four bolts (the crack can also take gear, medium to large cams) to a ledge at far right of the block.

Pitch 2: Up and right past five bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Follow eight bolts to chains.  Two ropes needed to rap. The crux is between the third and forth bolt. Fun!

This is the third bolted route from the left. Cool slabby climbing on featured and beautiful rock in a wonderful setting.

Fun slabby, slopey edges That lead to the top of the block where you set your own anchor.  Note the route title and beware!

An easy slabby route with the crux at the start

Pitch 1: 4 bolts to an anchor (90 feet)

Pitch 2: 6 bolts to an anchor (115 feet)

This large boulder gets missed when approaching the imposing wall.  Too bad...not a bad line to warm up on.

Pitch 1: Climb past a bolt (the crux) into a shallow left facing dihedral that takes gear to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Slab climbing past 4 bolts to an anchor.

Turning the corner of the undercling is the 5.8 move.

Six bolts straight up to a two bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall