A few power moves on large holds at the bottom to pleasant slab climbing on top. The slab portion is easier (but significantly taller!) than Resist the Crimp, but the starting sequence deserves a ~V1-V2 bouldering grade. Start both hands in the obvious, wide, deep, dark gash in the wall. A large move up left (or right) gets you onto a small jug. A few easier moves on good holds gets you securely stationed on your feet approximately 5-6 off the ground. Forget your immediate past as the crimps vanish and you find yourself on a slab face. Reach high to the rounded lip, and trust a few decent but small edges for your feet as you walk your way to the top. Highly consider heading slightly right as you are rounding the top out.

Anxious, American

Chessboard

Calm, Collected, German

Traverse (Low Variation)

Resist the Crimp

Slab Head

V1 Traverse

A highly enjoyable problem of typical S.B. style (powerful start to a hold-less slopey top-out). Sit start on the jug rail and make your way up to the good dish at the lip by using holds on the corner to the left or small crimps and a pocket to the right (both ways are good).

Note: this problem was covered in about 2 inches of mud so while I tried to clean it up pretty good it may still be a little dusty.

Start on an obvious shallow crimp rail with two hands approx. 4 feet off the ground with a high right foot. Pull hard as you blast up several feet to another crimp rail with a painfully sharp edge. Match both hands to this rail, maybe change feet, then blast, yet again, up and left to another small hold. Hang on tight as you pull through with your right hand to a large finale of a hold. To get your heart rate up and round out the exercise, continue left and onto the traverse. Painful and short.

Start on the far right side of the traverse and climb the first ~15 feet as desired, to the left. At this point, instead of moving up, as might be obvious, to a higher tier of jugs, stay low on a few crimps defined by thin horizontal seam and some very obscure low feet. Keep moving left until you arrive at jugs and large edges once again and finish once you encounter the large boulder sticking out of the ground.

Start on small horizontal crimps and move your way directly up the face using some delicate footwork, perhaps a few palm presses, and by milking a few small horizontal crimps/edges as long as they last. Trust your feet as your hands approach the rounded lip that offers not much more more than sloping sandstone. A large and very durable crimp several feet back is accessible once you get your feet high enough. Those who want to end the mental suffering can pull hard on this crimp to get over the lip to safety, but the route climbs much, much better if you resist this temptation and trust your feet on small sloping edges. Some times a bit dirty on top, but not a major problem. Likely to evolve over time.

A short but sweet slab climb, perfect for warming up and getting your slab head on. Start on two horizontal crimps/edges, preferably with a good right foot. Move your way up the face using a combination of good horizontal edges and decent feet. Top out onto using palm presses and perhaps a shallow pocket/slot for your right hand. Often a bit dirty on top, but not a major problem. Likely to evolve quickly over time.

At first glance looks a little junky but actually climbs quite nicely, the V1 traverse follows the line of weakness that slashes through pretty much the entire boulder. Start wherever you like in whichever direction you like and topout wherever you see fit...or don't. Great warmup or a good place to get pumped! Think juggy ant traverse

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Belafonte