Cliff Left of Arborist(5.10) are two bolted lines. Ask Mr. Science was retro-bolted so you have the option of climbing it in bold traditional style or the still very pumpy sport style with a different name (Tom Waits For No One).

Start in the big crack/small dihedral with the bolts right next to the route. Follow the line of most protection which is mostly next to the bolts until you get past the third bolt.

Ask Mr. Science

Tom Waits For No One

60SecondsOverTokyo

No Added Weight

Happy Ending

Buddha Bulge

Yokohama Mama

Slightly the same as 60 Seconds Over Tokyo.

Follow the line of most protection cliff right of the big horizontal right before the top out to the ledge. With that said this route deserves an 'X' or 'R' rating due to the lack of gear and ground fall potential. This route is only 25ft. but you need to have some mental confidence to top out with a ground fall possibility.

Scramble up to the little platform cliff left of Red Wall. Locate the bolt line just right of Mr. Science crack. Follow the six bolts to the bolted anchor. The crux is getting to the first bolt, otherwise bring a stick clip. The route becomes an endurance jug haul after the first bolt.

I removed the briars from the ledge at the base of this route. Get some!

You're probably better off bringing a bouldering pad for this 'route'. Short route with fairly easy climbing. The hardest part was finding the gear. My second said it didn't feel 5.10 on Top Rope. It only felt 5.10 on lead because of the hang time while trying to find decent gear.

NOT FOR A BEGINNING TRADITIONAL CLIMBER! Gear was subtle on somewhat chossy rock. The gear is in the tcu, c3, white tri-cam, small ball nutz range for most of the route.

Two holds broke off while I was leading it... be careful!

Getting to the first bolt is less heady then it's left neighbor but still a little heady. Great face climbing past two bolts and then merge with 'Tom' for the last four bolts. Great route, I would like to see the shared anchor for these two sport routes replaced and move a little higher. Pulling the roof would be ideal after the jug haul!

Climb either Buddha Bulge, 60 Seconds Over Tokyo, or Yokohama Mama to the big ledge underneath the Dihedral.

Climb the slight overhang directly under the dihedral. Once you climb out of the dihedral set a top route up on the small or big horizontals.

Fun climbing but the rock is not very well traveled...

Traverse cliff left on the horizontal to walk off. I climbed to the top of this wall and found that their is a gully full of briars. IF this was cleaned up a bit, it would be easier to climb to the top and then scramble down the gully.

Until then, traversing cliff left towards Buddha Bulge allows for an easy anchor set up for either top roping or to belay your second up to you and then allowing you to walk off.

Fun route. Hard onsight.

Look for the graffiti "ROBERT" this is the start of Buddha Bulge. Three main bulges. Start right of the first bulge (on Robert) climb out left. Climb up the second bulge and here is where the 'meat and potatoes' of the climb is. Protection is micro sized on good rock ( by Crowders standards).

Pull the last bulge out left before climbing up onto a ledge where you can easily escape left but climbing the seam cliff right with good but subtle protection is recommended for a bomber horizontal anchor area just above th crack system.

Great climb and easy enough to scramble the gully to reach the bomber horizontal natural anchor area.

Please climb this route... it needs love too!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 05. Rising Sun Wall