Essence is a great obscure climb that you will never have to wait in line for.  It climbs a small buttress of grey and golden rock on the far east end on the Eagle Creek amphitheater.

Pitch 1 (5.11b):  Starts below the tree at an imposing overhanging flare.  The beginning overhangs quite severely.  After pulling through the steep and slightly loose terrain you’ll arrive below the crux right facing corner.  There is a good rest before entering this section so utilize it wisely.  Jam your way up the #3s and #4s crack passing a tree and arriving at a sloping ledge below the beautiful splitter.  Bring 3 #3s and 2 #4s for this pitch.  110 feet.

Pitch 2 (5.11b):  Be ready to climb fast or risk getting wicked pumped from hanging out to long.  This pitch ascends the right side of the double crack system and is mainly a .75/ Red Metolius sized splitter with a decent rest about halfway up. The pitch ends in a small alcove on a sloping Ledge.  Bring 3 .75 sizes pieces for this pitch.  150 feet.

Pitch 3 (5.10b):  Pull out the small alcove on steep terrain and varied cracks.  Be mindful of loose rock.  Belay on a blocky ledge system.

Rap the route at the top of pitch 3.  Bring webbing and links to replace old tat as this doesn’t see many ascents.  From the top of pitch three rap 200’ down to the 4th class ledge at the top of pitch 1.  Walk off to climbers left and descend back to the base.

Essence

Split Pinnacle, East Arete

This fun climb Starts in a chimney on the east side of the spire.

Climb cracks into the chimney (5.8), chimney up to a belay at it's end.

Climb 5.7 crystals and a 5.8 corner for a pitch.

Move down and left (5.4)to a belay below a curving crack.

Follow this (5.8) to the little notch below the tip. Either climb a 5.10c lieback, or A1 crack to the summit.

Originally submitted by

Blitzo

, Oct 22, 2006. Converted to a route posthumously at

Mike Dahlquist

's suggestion, thanks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. Upper Eagle Creek