Start in the chimney just left of Peewee's Piton, as for Belly Scraper.

Climb the chimney (Belly Scraper) about 20 feet, then climb the steep, sculptured face to the left of Belly Scraper (5.7) to a ledge. Step right onto the main face at a right leaning seam (crossing Belly Scraper), then climb up more sculpted rock, keeping left of the upper section of Peewee's Piton to the communal anchor.

Wee Willy Winkie

Span-nish Fly

The Reverend Dick Shook

PePe LePew

Belly Scraper

Peewee's Piton

The Oui Oui

I so wanted to give this climb the BOMB quality rating, ...but I just couldn't. There is something fun in climbing this suckwad route; I don't know what it is. This crappy route goes up lumps, buckets, and features about 40 feet left of Belly Scraper. The rock quality is poor, the climbing challenging, no fixed anchor. You probably have to go do this climb to see for yourself. It does have a short approach, and you don't have to place many pieces; other than that, it has few redeeming qualities.

Begin about 25 feet right of The Oui Oui near the corner of the formation.

Climb up and right on rounded, grainy huecos to a stance. Climb up the face above near a vertical crack to a right facing corner and the top.

The central crack on the route is clearly visible from the road.

Nice little semi-spicy old school trad.  (2 stars spicy at Royal Siam.)  Go up the chimney before crawling right with scant placements but useful bolts on neighboring routes from which to clip.  A bit funky but easy enough.  Crux occurs near the top (with a small cam below you) where you search for positive hands and feet, sometimes to the left.

One of those "easy" climbs for which you want to be solid at the (old school) grade.

Scramble up to a ledge and boulder up to clip a glue-in bolt which protects a mantle up and right onto a ledge below a left-slanting ramp system.

Lieback up the ramp to a manky looking fixed pin (a 1" cam can be placed 3' below to back-up the pin) which protects awkward, balancy moves to get established on a small ledge below a section of attractive face.

Above the rock quality improves and fun climbing up plated face and friction leads to a sport anchor below the top.

Great moves on this route but the rock quality in the lower portion leaves something to be desired. With time, and more ascents, this will get buffed out and become a popular climb in this area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Peewee Rock