A sweet looking line with pretty good climbing as well. A bit intimidating with the boulder that sits behind it, potential to hit your head and you have to avoid hitting it when topping out. 

  Start on the arete and move up using edges on the right and pockets on the left. The crux involves gaining a small 2-3 finger pocket right on the arete with your left hand. From here another couple of moves leads to the square cut top.

Pinball Simulator/ First Arete

"Girl" Problem

Scoop Mantle

The Valsalva Maneuver AKA: Left Pinball Simulator

Timeline

Scoop

Right to Scoop

Scoop Right

Project 2

Short and improbable compression line. It is not over till you are standing on the slab. 

  Use high feet and heel hooks to get through the first few moves on terrible slopers. Once the arete turns vertical you can get a right pinch and some more bad slopers out to the left. Work up onto the slab using thin edges and slopers with hard to see feet.

Very low start, a couple of tweaky pockets. Steep and interesting holds. 

  Start from the low hueco and move into some two finger pockets. Make a move up to a hold to the left and ride a heel in the starting hold to a good hold just below the lip. The mantle is not a gimmie but not too bad either.

The crux is getting out of the pool. An eliminate, the huge pocket on the left that the Scoop Right jumps to is off. 

  Start with the left on the right edge of the scoop and the right on a sidepull underling. Step onto the wall and move up to the sloping lip. Mantle. Could be started from a sit on the arete down and right, this would probably add a grade.

Powerful move on thin crimps with a boulder that sits behind the problem that it seems like you could land on when you swing out. 

  Start on the arete of Pinball Simulator, but move up into the scooped face to the left. Make some tricky but easier moves to get established on a pair of thin edges. Bust the crux move to the edge a few feet below the lip, then reach to the square cut lip and mantle out.

Problem was found and cleaned by Dani G. Technical slapping up the arete to a high finish. 

  Start on a high edge for the left just below the angle change on the boulder and the right pinching the arete where ever is convenient. Slap up the arete using a couple of thin sidepulls on the face to the left. Once up above the angle change you need to make a committing move around the arete to a hard to see pocket. Once you have the pocket topping out is easier.

Really the only bad thing about this problem is how low the start is. 

  Start from a SDS off of a positive 8 finger edge. Move up edges to the base of the scoop feature. Make a long move out left to a knob and mantle into the scoop to reach a knob. From here figure out how to move into the crack and stand up. Once you are standing you should be all good.

This problem uses some small holds in an interesting way. 

  Start from the arete on the right side of the boulder at about shoulder height, if you are sitting on the boulder just to the right of the face you will be looking at the arete where you start. After getting established on the wall, make a big move up and left to a two finger pocket on the short face, there is an intermediate. Top out either straight up or by continuing left to the hueco jug at the right edge of the scoop.

A worth while variation to the standard Scoop problem. The grade is really about the same, the movement is just not quite as good. 

  From the same low low SDS matched on the 8 finger edge move up into the bottom of the scoop feature. Head up and right to the obvious jug hueco at the right apex of the scoop. What ever you do, when you get to it do not let go or risk losing a bunch of skin. Another very big move leads to a good edge and the top out.

This is the largest collection of established problems in the area. The rock is all good to great with many difficult and steep problems. A few are quite tall or intimidating because of the landings. If you are going to see other climbers out here this is probably where it is going to happen though it is still unlikely. Being in the bottom of the gully and tucked in the big trees the area is quite sheltered from wind and sun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pinball Simulator Area