The Great Train Robbery

Please Don't Pop

Vertigo

Margies Curves - Right

Cobblestoned

Retro Vertigo

Margies Curves - Left

The Apprentice

Manhattan Limited

Moby Neil

Keneissiology

Autumns Child

Curt's Crack

Headstone

Birthday Girl

Silver Streak

Russell's Ruin

Snap Crackle Plop

Pebbles and Bam Bam

Fast Break

Climb the thin crimpy face straight up to the top.

Start on a shallow, red, right facing flake.  Climb past 5 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.  Crux is at the roof.  Try to find the fun no-handed rest, mid face!

Up the face. The hard part is the first 10 feet off the ground - (could try starting close to the Margie's Curves crack, or farther away right). Above that sustained 5.9 - (though difficulty not as sustained as Retro Vertigo next to it).

Climb the same crack as Margies Curves Left however at the split (bottom of the Tombstone) follow the crack right.

Roughly straight up the face with many thoughtful moves. Difficulty more sustained than Vertigo next to it.

Fine, fun crack. Third splitter on the Main Wall.Above the horizontal at 35 feet, you can finish up the offwidth (5.6) or climb the face to the right of the crack past 2 bolts to reach a 2 ring anchor at 50 feet.Well protected with plenty of options for feet outside the crack as well.

Classic bolted line. Crimpy with a few, various, small features to use on the way up.

Toprope this route using the anchors of "Please Don't Pop"

Start at the flake, move up through some jugs to a ledge (5.4), then into an left facing dihedral/corner to the top.

Nice introduction to Boxcar.    Up the obvious crack. Interesting crux sequence mid-way. Fun moves below and above.

Classic (for the area) splitter that goes from fingers, to thin hands, to hands then is fist and/or offwidth(y) above the horizontal. 

  You can climb the fingers to hands crack to the horizontal then instead of continuing onto the fist/offwidth above, crawl (an average size human can fit) through the passage/tunnel and build an anchor. Just an option.

Climb up the Margies Curves crack but instead of following the crack left or right, go straight up onto the face and to the top.

Fun face climb through 2 bolts. Start in the left facing corner, move up to the horizontal and diagonal left to the first bolt; straight up from there.  Hunt for the amazing finger tube above the small roof. 

  Two bolts for a top anchor. 

  This is the easiest bolted/mixed route here.

Climb the crimpy delicate face to the right of "Snap Crackle Plop"

First splitter crack on the Main Wall. Climb the crack straight to the top.

Climb a bouldery right facing flake to a bolt and a rest.  Delicately climb the face above past 2 more bolts to a horizontal.  Clip a 4th bolt and pull the small roof using nice finger pockets. Finish on the fun face past a 5th bolt to a 2 ring anchor.

A near vertical face with some fun crimps and pinches. Climb the thin face straight up.

A very featured climb which is very different from the straight forward face climbing on most of the wall. The start can be made harder if you go straight up but can be maneuvered along the shelves for an even easier start. The crux is getting on the roof box as it is for most climbs here, it still is not as hard as most and is very consistent throughout the climb. Climb into the cave from the opposite side to say hello to any fellow hikers on the opposite side of the wall! Also when belaying there’s a good standing place 20ft from the wall and this lowers the rope drag considerably.

The largest and most accessible wall at Boxcar Rocks. Climbs are on the south facing (sunny) side of the wall. The routes run around 45-50 feet tall. 

  Most or all of the Main Wall now has bolts for anchors just below the top of the wall. In the past they were directly on the top, and subject to much vandalism.  These bolts can be reached most safely by lead climbing an easier route.  

  Alternately you can scramble up blocks on the back/north side of the wall. You'll still have to free climb easy class 5 rock to reach the top and set anchors from the back. We sent our anchor setter up wearing his climbing shoes, let him clip in to an anchor bolt for safety, then let him haul up the heavy gear and rope on a cord.  

  Routes from left to right: 

  Just right of the Turtle Head: 

 Moby Neil 5.6 G Locomotive Breath 5.10c TR Moby Direct 5.7 TR Russel's Ruin 5.5 G Cobblestoned 5.11d TR Bam Bam 5.10a TR: the wall immediately left of Pebbles crack. I think I noticed some bolts there. Pebbles 5.6 G: the almost-vertical crack. It goes up 3/4ths of the way up the wall, shifts slightly right at the horizontal, then resumes verticality to the top. Curt's Crack 5.7 G Snap Crackle Plop 5.10a (bolts) The Apprentice 5.9 (5 bolts) Autumn's Child 5.10a G

  Margie's curves: look for the only Y-shaped crack on the main wall. The area between the arms of the Y is the Headstone. 

 Margie's Curves Left 5.7 G Headstone TR 5.9 Margie's Curves Right rating? Vertigo 5.9 R Retro Vertigo 5.10a R Birthday Girl 5.7 G (2 bolts) Kinesiology 5.6 G

  This list covers most but not all climbs we saw there in winter 2012. More face lines are bolted now than I have listed here. The obvious crack climbs are all named in this list, and graded 5.5 to 5.7 G. The farthest left crack was wider than others, and 4" or wider SLCDs might work best there. Most others look doable with standard 3" and smaller gear, unless we missed some surprises higher up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall