This is an easier finish to

Running Code

. From the final lead bolt above the ledge, traverse straight right on a jug rail until you're back in the black streak. The steep terrain looks unlikely, but good gear and hidden mega jugs will take you up the black streak and to a separate two bolt anchor above.

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Diva

Running Code

Ancient Relics

Who Haas Those Holds?

Coleman Direct

Medusa Cascade

Solar Ridge

Running Code is a mixed line that climbs through a black streak, tops out a large ledge that splits the whole wall, and continues up an aesthetic overhanging crack. The large ledge is an unfortunate break in the wall, but for those looking for a steep yet moderate gear route, this is not to be missed!

From the large ledge, one has the option to finish the route up the steep crack straight above, finish on

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to the right, or lower from the intermediate anchor. The first half of the route can be climbed as a PG-13 sport climb or sewed up with one tight hand or finger-sized piece.

Climb a flake-like feature. It seems solid. It is 5.5/6, BUT, I would not like to test it. If the gear will hold a good fall, it is only 6 to 7 inches thick. Follow a short crack to the slab to the upper wall. There are two ways to go. Follow the crack left of

Medusa Cascade

, 5.7R. It is unprotected to the crack. There is a gear placement in the questionable flake, before the crack, after crack joins

Medusa Cascade

or climb the upper part of

Medusa Cascade

. This is 5.8 and bolted.

Phil Persson did the 1st pitch, not quite sure what it was.  It is fun and has pro where you need it. 5.8+?  We redirected to the anchors on

Coleman

, did

Solar Ridge

P2 and then made our own adventure.  P1 was quite good!

Per

Monty

: P2 continues up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground above.

We walked over to Tan Corridor and rap'd off a tree.  If you just want to walk down, keep right and shoot for the top of the Tan' gully.

The name came from when the first ascentionist broke several key holds all at once during the crux sequence while way runout above a ledge and nearly took the big ride. (The rock has cleaned up since then.)

P1: 5.6 Start up a large, black, left-facing corner and belay at a sloping stance on a ledge (100').

P2: 5.10+ R. Climb up past a bush, and then traverse right to gain a hanging finger crack. Crank up the crack to a ledge then do thin, crux face moves up a vertical headwall. Continue to the top via easy climbing (200').

Climb the prominent black streak just right of

Solar Ridge

. Clip a bolt halfway up, then fire a short but fun steep section on great rock to a bolted anchor. Rap or continue on to P2 of

Solar Ridge

.

Start with two short shallow cracks, and climb the face. There are a couple gear placements after the 3rd bolt or it is PG-13 with an easy runout to the next bolt. Climb easy runout slab to the face. Staying right of bolts is 5.7/8 and staying left is 5.9+/10a.

This is a fun romp up to the top of the Meadow Dome. Pretty casual, it was one of the first new routes to go in at Staunton!

P1: 5.8+. Begin in the leftmost black streak on the Cascades Wall (just before a chimney formed by a tower). Follow this streak up until it is easy to step left into another groove. Build an anchor on the ledge or belay at two bolts on the left side of the ledge (bad pendulum potential for the second), 55'.

P2: 5.8+. Climb directly above the bolted belay anchor on the ridge past a couple small overlaps. Continue up on easier ground and belay at a tree on a ledge to the left of the ridge, 155',

P3: 5.5. The ridge pitch! This has classic position and great stone. From the tree, climb down and right to gain a faint black streak. Follow the streak until you feel like stepping right to the ridge. Take this until you feel comfortable setting up a belay and scrambling to the top, 125'.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Cascades Wall