Martial Arch climbs up the same crack that separates the arch and the tower that

Arch You Glad

goes up, EXCEPT from the south side of the tower instead of the north. This side is a bit shorter, easier, and sports better rock quality.

P1

. Begin in a short dihedral to a roof just 15ft off the deck. Traverse a sandy loose ledge to the arrette and climb the crack to the huge ledge. The rock quality is drastically better above this short section. From the ledge stem and follow various cracks up to the splitter corner until it turns into the arch. Traverse 8ft right to another crack to belay,

(5.9, 35m)

.

P2

. From the belay traverse back to the opening of the arch and left across its leg aiming for the bulb with a thin crack. Mount the bulb and then the flat shoulder of the arch. Traverse back over right and anchor in a thin soft seem,

(5.6 PG, 15m)

.

P3

. Climb up the final shoulder to the summit. Other than a hidden knife-blade there's no gear up here. Cross over the East leg of the arch to the summit of the tower for a gear anchor.

(5th class R, 10m)

DESCENT

. Hike east to the raps of

Knot in My Backyard

Arch Tower: Martial Arch

Tandem Towers: Happy Cycling

Arch Tower: Arch You Glad

The Crooked Old Man of the Swell

Tandem Towers: Token Englishmen

Arch Tower: Knot in My Backyard

The Arch Tower has a detached arch on its west side, and was named in the hiking guide book by Allen.

"Knot in My Backyard" III 5.9.  The route takes the obvious line of deep grooves and cracks on the east end of the tower.  Start around the right corner (left end of the north face) up a right-facing flake/chimney.

P1)  One move of aid on a 3.5 camalot leads to an awkward entry into the chimney.  Continue up a nice hand crack over a bulge, then angle left and up easier terrain to a two bolt belay.130' C0 5.9

P2)  Up the groove on the right to easier climbing and a two bolt belay. 80' 5.8.

P3). Scramble 4th class to the summit 40'

Rap the route, two ropes.

The Tandem Towers are two "towers" that push the definition of towers being taller than they are wide. They were first aid climbed by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Zach Bishop, and Stu Ritchie in 2005 via routes on the East side.

P1

This is the money pitch. Immediately zap all your energy in a 15ft squeeze OW. Then, pullout to a .75 splitter that quickly flares for another 15 feet (crux). Gain a rest and swim up perfect wide hands/cups to a great belay that takes #1- #2.

(5.12, 25m).

P2

Off the belay, climb fantastic hands to fists in a zig zag crack. Then navigate a really sandy, loose section that most may find safer to aid. After pulling the second wide bulge, either belay at a ledge or deal with the rope drag for another 50ft of 5.6 to the summit.

(

5.11+, 40m).

As in, Arch You Glad we got out before that storm hit?

This line climbs and summits the western leg of the Arch Tower's precarious namesake. The rock waxes and wanes between hollow and solid, wide and thin. There is only about 20 feet of C1 that will go free. After the first couple attempts ended in the belayer taking a few rouge flakes to the ribs, we decided to check the ego and move more delicately.

Approach

After reaching the tower find the detached arch off its north face.

P1

. Begin in a sandy OW and climb up to the first ledge. Follow the #3 crack on the right up to a good ledge with a very ominous block. Light is already visible from the other side of the arch. Belay takes thin hand sizes and #4,

(5.9 PG, 20m)

.

P2

. Follow up the OW corner until it thins to fists and forces a strenuous mantel onto a sloping ledge. The curvature of the arch is felt as the wall steepens above this awkward ledge. Above the crack thins to a seem near twin hollow fakes. Pull out the aiders and watch for hollow rock. Then, mantel up to thread the needle and belay on actual tower's west face. Varying size crack,

(5.10 C1, 20m)

.

P3-4

. Finish as for

Martial Arch

DESCENT

. Hike east to the raps of

Knot in My Backyard

The Crooked Old Man of the Swell 5.9-AO. A mini tower with a big approach. P1)Start on the East side. Up a groove to a bolt then left to the south face. Straight up steep rock to the summit.Good Protection.Will go all free . A free attempt was not made due to approaching thunder storm. Cam and sling was used for aid.Rap from drilled pitons over the overhanging end of the tower.

The Tandem Towers are two "towers" that push the definition of towers being taller than they are wide. They were first aid climbed by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Zach Bishop, and Stu Ritchie in 2005 via routes on the East side.

Approach

After reaching the southwest face of the Tandem Towers, find a corner to the left of the large roof at the shoulder between the towers.

P1

. Climb up the thin, overhung corner and pull up into the vertical off-width. Fight the off-width until coming up on a short slab.

(5.10, 25m).

P2

. From the slab swim up beautiful hand jams as the crack begins to lean to the left. After a couple awkward sections reach a huge sharp ledge. Belay takes #1-4.

(5.9, 25m).

P3

. Either traverse across the ledge to the center of the shorter tower and and climb up loose rock to the bolted summit or climb straight up to it through more loose rock.

(5.7, 5-10m)

note: We climbed the first two pitches in one 50m pitch, but rope drag and sharp rock made this option less than favorable.

DESCENT

Double rope rap off a two bolt anchor puts you on the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in Smith Cabin