Nice easy romp up to the top. Good first lead.

Should've Used a Rubber

Almost Paradise

Goodbye Bread

Eye Dew

Devirginized

Shotgun Wedding

Touchy Feely

Saddlesore

Banging The Bedboards

Makin' Babies

Climb a crack system through white rock. Great protection and fun opposing side pulls lead to a couple of balancy moves to a mediocre rest before the crux, a crack through a minor bulge at the top of the route. Fire in a small cam and crank buttery finger locks to the chains!

Crux is down low and in the mid section of this fun addition to the Newlywed Wall. These one pitch routes on The Newlywed Wall are well protected and on excellent rock.

Goodbye Bread has overhangs, crimps, mantels, slopers, slab. What more could you want?

The white rock at the bottom is better than it appears.

A four bolt route that starts on a giant overhang. Safely bolted to ensure fun to be had for as long as you both shall live.

Good holds lead to the 1st bolt. Tricky climbing with cryptic sequences leads through the next two bolts. 3rd bolt is tricky to clip but it is all there, you just need to find the right position. Continue up moderate climbing just right of the arete on white rock for the next few bolts until the angle kicks back and the route heads left. Enjoy the steepness while you blast left on ledges and slopers. Crank up the funk as you exit the ledge onto the upper face where a couple of crimps take you to the anchor. Fun and unique climbing. Nice addition to one of the most popular and accessible crags at Ibex.

This fully bolted route starts 20 feet to the right of Banging The Bedboards and only a few feet of the fully bolted Saddlesore. A soft touch allows you to slither past the crux to a two bolt belay.

A bit squeezed between Banging The Bedboards and Touchy Feely, but this gives the climber numerous options after the "arduous" approach to this wall.

These are a good collection of new moderate/easy routes for the area. Should become popular.

Fun climbing with a bit of an intimidating start, but it is all there. Shares anchors with a sport climb to the left.

Fun new route on the newleywed bluff.  Easy initial climbing leads to techy crux between the third and fifth bolts where the feet go away for a bit.  After the crux it is just jug hauling to the top.  The first bolt is quite high due to the initial ledge, so either bring a long stick clip, tackle the initial bulge unprotected, or traverse in on the ledge from the left (doesn't change the grade at all).  The grade is somewhat height dependent, more like 5.8 if you are tall, or 5.9 if you are short.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Newlywed Area