Begin by chimneying between an oak tree and the overhanging wall until you can step across and commit to climbing the slabby rock face. Follow the line of bolts through thin edging and slab to the anchors.

Pee-Wee Hermans Tree Trip

Trial By Fire

Harding Route

Chad's Mantel

Magik Luv Gaz

Step off a boulder and onto the face and follow the line of bolts to the top.

This is a seldom climbed old route with matching old rusty hangers that despite their appearance, are still quite solid upon closer inspection. Three bolts protect the route with the addition of one good place for gear. The route is fairly well protected but some prudence should be used before clipping the high first bolt.

This route is rumored to be an old route put in on lead by Warren Harding himself.

Needs re-bolted.

A quite perplexing puzzle, this route has been know to stump climbers capable of climbing far more difficult routes. Begin by reaching up and clipping the first bolt. Now make a long reach for some, a dyno for most, and monkey bar onto a large rail. Hand traverse out right, kick a foot up for a heel hook and enjoy being able to place a bomber #3 Camalot anywhere you wish. Traverse your way out to the right edge, and now find a way to mantle up onto the overhanging ledge and step around the corner. From here, 4 bolts protect thin 5.10 edging to the anchors.

This route was put in ground up and hand drilled on stances. Two bolts were added after the first ascent because of the thin potato chip flakes on the route which did not allow an acceptable opportunity for more protection to be added on the F.A. Which would have been appreciated and taken advantage of.

A vertical section with ledges presents a bouldery puzzle off the deck, well-protected with two bolts. Starting at the bolt on the left goes at 5.9; using the right-hand first bolt instead used to go at 5.10a until a block broke off. Now it's a fairly decent V3/4 boulder problem. Caution should be used if attempting to lead the right hand variation as the protection bolt placed is totally worthless and will not protect you from a ground fall when pulling through the crux. A boulder pad is a better option than a rope. Both variations share the same bolt line for the rest of the climb (dirty 4th class), low-angle but with an easier cruxy move close to the anchors. Lichen makes footwork more delicate than you'd expect up here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Scone