This is the incredible splitter and stem corner on the north side of Chimney Rock. A mellow start leads to a ledge, where you can rest up before pulling on some of the best crack climbing in the park. Aside from a good rest about halfway, this route is mostly sustained and includes finger locks, ring locks, a couple of hand jams, and a punch-it-to-the-chains type of finish.

It is worth the hike!

The Ukrainian Challenge

Ever Abel

The Learning Curve

Left Ear Down

Right Ear Up

Mantelpiece

Frances' Secret Handshake

Chimney Route

For an ascent of this route, bring the big gear and be ready to use your route finding and offwidth skills.

This route can be divided into 3 sections. In all 3, a brief 5.11-/5.10+ move yields fun practicable 5.10 climbing.

Use a long draw on the roof clip, and keep an attentive belay during the mantel off the large ledge.

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A problematic high block temporarily shut down the development of this section of rock. Failure in extracting the block eventually led to a fresh look at the wall, and an unforeseen pure sport route emerged. The afternoon knows what the morning never expected.

The pristine location, quality of rock, and variance of movement and handholds on vertical granite rock will ensure that The Learning Curve leaves both a historic mark in Staunton State Park and a lasting impression on the climbing community.

The Learning Curve will test your strength, stamina, and route-reading ability over lengthy 5.11 climbing and multiple 5.12 cruxes. Rampy granite blocks and a thin face, which culminates in a technical, reachy crux comprise the first 60% of this route.

After a welcome rest, the eye-catching green lichen streak contains unrelenting thin, vertical crimping on wandering holds. The start of the green streak contains the main crux, which revolves around a large sloper. A redpoint crux defends the last bolt and anchors.

This is truly a masterpiece!

The largest thank you goes out to both Kirk Miller and Tyson Ferryman. The establishment of this climb never would have occurred without years of foresight and hard, dedicated work.

This is the sport start to

Right Ear Up

. Since there is a natural stance before the trad section, I figured the route would get more traffic if I added an intermediate anchor.

The route does feel anticlimactic when climbed this way but is still worthy.

The first 70 feet go on bolts, and the final 50 feet go on gear.

Clip the Lost Arrow, and ascend an assortment of dihedrals and slabs. At the intermediate anchor, clip the right bolt, and step right into the trad section.

The traditional section ascends a variable width crack that in accordance to park rules avoids local flora. Generously, nature allowed for an exciting pathway though the vegetated cliff. Clip a final bolt, and gain the anchors.

Mantelpiece is a 2 pitch route that summits the northeast side of Chimney Rock.

P1. Climb two slab sections split by a low angle crack. At the top of the slab, trend right to a 2 bolt anchor (5.11-).

P2. The second pitch heads up steeper ground on a patchwork of truncated aretes, bulges, and dihedrals. This geometry results in a number of mantels and rests that lead to an increasingly technical headwall before the topout (5.12-).

Rappel twice with a 60 meter rope.

Alternatively, the route can be climbed as a long single pitch as it was on the FA.

This route is dedicated to Frances Hornbrook Staunton, whose generous contribution led to the creation of Staunton State Park.

The climb gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Onsighting this route will test your 5.11 skill set for sure. Climbing the first pitch, you encounter very steep rock with tricky roof, thin face, and delicate slab cruxes. This can be a very demanding climb. With a little luck, you might even discover the secret handshake.

If you're gunning for the summit you'll have to complete the second pitch, move the belay right to set up. The second pitch pulls a bouldery move right off a ledge with a huge perched block at your back. To prevent both ledge fall injury and the distinct possibility of falling onto the block, this pitch was closely bolted.

The rap anchors are right of the finish and conveniently accessed from the last protection bolt.

Huge props to Tyson for re-discovering Chimney Rock. Thanks for bringing me to this amazing spire! Thanks also to Troy Tadlock for help with summit bolts and rap anchors. Bolting these routes is a ton of work, and it's great to have help!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chimney Rock