A surprisingly consistent route with solid rock by Willard Peak standards broken up in two longer sections. The lower tier had the best climbing highlighting a dihedral pitch, and an arete followed by a good hand and fist crack. This section showed no evidence of prior ascents, but with many options for climbing, it is hard to imagine the broader ridge not having been previously climbed. 3 Star Climbing

The upper section featured primarily face climbing with the occasional loose rock and has been previously been climbed by an unknown party or parties. 2 Star Climbing

Pitch 1: Starting around 100' north of the ridge's crest, climb easy face (5.5) past a notch and a larger ledge to a crack leading to a small roof/overlap. Climb this around the right (better climbing) or left (easier climbing) to a small ledge with a dihederal leading out the left side of the ledge. Around 150' total 5.7.

Alternatively, a good looking crack is found 50' right of this start with a small crack in an inverted stepped dihederal. This would rejoin the original pitch 1 at the larger ledge, but may require breaking the pitch into two pitches.

Pitch 2: begin in the dihederal. continue climbing straight up with solid but blocky climbing. Easier climb may be found to the right, but the climbing did not appear to be as high quality. Belay on a ledge underneath a roof. 150' 5.7

Pitch 3: On the left side of the ledge, climb the sharp arete to the left edge of the roof. This section was unprotected for 20' but might be able to be protected with a KB or birdbeak for those willing to add to the route. Continue on disconnected cracks and face climbing to a small overlap/roof; traverse left then up the 2-3" handcrack. A little face climbing will bring you to a belay around the top of the "Pride Rock Step." This is the best pitch of the climb. Alternatively, one could climb a pitch right of the roof up unaesthetic bushy and block terrain, but why would you do that.  5.8 PG-13 150+'

At this point, take out the baboon and newborn lion cub to show the world. You can keep you pack lighter by leaving the evil uncle lion at home. If you failed to bring these essential items, just take a shot of whiskey.

Move the belay 60' down pride rock to the upper face. This is 4th class or easy 5th. Depending upon your comfort level, it could be possible to down belay or down lead. You could also set up a rappel but would need to bring materials to build an anchor.

Pitch 4: Start in the crack 10' left of the main arete. leave this crack after the first bush and head up face hold and broken crack systems to a belay behind a large feature on the right resembling a tombstone around 10' right of the large chimney. There is a little bit more lose rock on this section than previous pitches, with a section of 20-30' of unprotected face climbing about 2/3 of the way up and an older angle piton underneath a block around 90' up. 150' or so. 5.7 PG-13

Pitch 5: continue on ledges and face climbing up and left to where you can climb across the top of the chimney. continue upwards towards the crest of the step. There is a large flake feature towards the end of the pitch with loose flakes on the top of it that appears solid as you climb to it. Avoid this feature. Set up a belay on a ledge just past this feature. 150' 5.6 or 5.7

Pitch 6: climb up to the top of the step and continue up the next step to the top. 5.3 80'

From here you can put on your approach shoes and scramble along the crest for several hundred feet of 4th class which includes some downclimbing. Staying on the crest proper is much easier than finding ways around features even when the crest appear improbable.

Around a half hour of hiking up the ridge and hiking trail will bring you back to your car.

West Ridge of the Ogre: Ogre Steps

Air to Spare

Win Bigly

Southwest Ridge

Ad Astra Per Aspera

This route climbs the prominent southwest ridge of london spire.  Overall it is a very easy climb, ranging in the 4th class to easy 5th class range, with one pitch of 5.7. The rock quality is overall pretty good, though there is lots of loose rock and scree. However, there is definitely enough good rock to make it worthwhile and protection is plentiful.

Most competent parties can easily solo the majority of the route with little concern, though almost everyone will want a rope for the 5.7 pitch. I felt slightly less comfortable soloing this route than upper exum or the west slabs, but it is comparable in difficulty. The number of pitches is therefore a bit ambiguous. Belays can be set up basically anywhere with lots of ledges.  I have broken my description into sections, rather than pitches.

Essentially, follow the ridge the whole way up. Lots of options. There are no fixed anchors

1. Start up the ridge from the saddle.  The first obstacle is a small roof 40 feet up. We passed it on the left on good holds. Maybe 5.6. Belay if you wish.

2. Easy terrain with lots of big ledges will lead you for a couple hundred more feet. Belay as necessary.

3. The main obstacle of the climb is encountered about halfway up. It is a large roof that you don't want to climb over. This is the 5.7 pitch most will want to rope up for. Climb out right of the roof on good holds over a very exposed drop. Climb up into a diehdral of sorts and up a good 60 feet till the climbing turns easy again and belay. Good pro.  100'

4. From here the climbing turns even easier. Mostly 5th class moves to top. You can make this section difficult or easy, depending on your desire. Lots of steeper stuff, but also easy stuff to bypass it. You know your on top when you come to a wood pole with some underwear on it.

Time: 2 hours with mostly soloing, 1 pitch with rope.

This climb is very fun, with great views and an alpine setting.  The approach and descent aren't fun, but its a worthy adventure. Very few people seem to do it.

Air to Spare is up a talus slope and is south-facing. Sun hits mid-morning most of the year I'd imagine. We climbed on a day that hit 97 in SLC and the route was pleasant and breezy. Not too hot but not much shade. The walk down got hotter and hotter.P1-bolts up arête. chain anchorP2- cams across an airy traverse to bolts and cam. Chain anchor.Optional roof crack (details anyone?)P3-cams and boltsOptional dihedral crack (details anyone?)P4-bolts and cams. Pro belay finger cams under roof.P5- Cams and bolt in crunchy corner on left. Chain anchor on slab above roof.Optional roof crack to face crack. (bail hex found in roof. Details anyone?)Descent:(Updated 4/21/19)3 x 100’ rappels is to the west into the talus gulley climbers left of the formation then walk down to the toe of the formation and the base of the route. The rappels will land you a little uphill from the prominent splitter crack on the opposite wall of the gulley called The descent anchors are completely separate from the route except the top anchor.  Rapping the route would be difficult or impossible with one rope and is not recommended. The rappel stations are down to the west on ledges.  One of them is just below a ramp. You may want to carry fresh webbing and links in case the tat needs to be replaced or backed up.

This is the obvious splitter crack just to the West of the base of "Air to Spare" across the corridor. Starts with finger locks and balancey moves which take you to a resting pod midway.  Pulling out of the pod on hand jams and poor feet is the crux, followed by fun face and crack climbing to the top.  The rock around the crux still needs some cleaning, but the rest of the route is solid stone and once cleaned up a bit more this will be an awesome climb.

PITCH ONE

Climb easy terrain to a sling belay on a ledge (50' ish)

PITCH TWO

From the sling belay walk up a ledge to a straight in crack. This is the only crack up a right of the belay that you can hand-jam for a few feet. Climb the crack to a few bolts.

After the second bolt arch left around a small corner and clip another bolt.  Note: this is where I "wimped" out and avoided the good climbing by arching left to easier terrain.  After clipping this bolt, make your way straight up to a giant ledge with a bolted anchor. We named this RED LEDGE because of the Giant red band of rock visible from Willard.

PITCH THREE

Start up and right of the belay about 15 feet. Climb and arch left past some cam placements to bolts leading through a steep red face directly above the belay.

This is the crux for the route. It has bolts where you want and doesn't have bolts where you also want them. After arching up and left past bolts, climb left (north) for a few feet, then travel straight up past a few fixed pitons to a bolted belay.

PITCH FOUR

The fourth pitch gains a big ledge then climbs straight above the belay. About 12-15 feet up, there is a great horn to sling, then a bolt, piton, and a bolt to a small ledge with a bolted anchor.

If you are in doubt of where to start the first pitch, look high and you'll see the bolts in a clean face. At the end of pitch five arch left (north) to the anchor.

PITCH FIVE

Climb up a left to a fixed pin. Ascend straight up past more fixed pins and finish out a small roof crack. Above the roof, clip and anchor and continue to the summit!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Willard