Fun bouldery moves up steep blocky terrain lead to some fun wide angle stemming (the crux) and then to a finish in a hero's handcrack. A very fun route with cool moves. Despite how steep it is it isn't terribly pumpy as there are numerous no hands rests.

Dangling Woo Li Master

Caught Inside on a Big Set

Morning Thunder

Take Two, They're Small

Euphrates

Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes)

Thuggish thin crack climbing leads to a horizontal thin hands crack.  Easier climbing leads up and right to join with

Dangling Woo Li Master

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Directly across from the Book of Changes, jam and layback a steep thin hand crack.  Higher, step right into a wide hand crack.  Straightforward walk off.

The longest route in the Grotto.  Climb the slight overhanging corner using crack, stem, and chimney moves.  There is always a 'small' placement possibility in the corner.  It will take small nuts and TCUs.  Use 2' slings on all placements and the rope drag will be acceptable higher up, otherwise you might be stopped.

You will be standing/stemming in body tension a few times.  The crux is getting onto a left edge low on the route.  It isn't over yet, and the route continues for a ways through two more overhang sections.  The upper section is a sustained crack.

Belay in a small alcove.

To descend, face climb out of the alcove to the left past a pin and belay on a big platform.  Rappel off long fixed slings toward the anchor for Book of Changes.

Lieback up a wide crack crux, then move left 10 feet to another hard move up a short crack to the belay of Dangling Woo Li Master.

Interesting face climbing (a traverse in from the right or a 10d direct start) lead to fun, varied climbing up cracks and a dihedral, with some slab moves thrown in. This is an excellent route with awesome moves. The direct start isn't too bad, go for it!

Recently a block pulled off the route (obvious triangular rock scar in the dihedral). It's not at a crux section and doesn't seem to have changed the route much, but there will a little dirt and cruft in that one spot for a while until it cleans up so use caution.

Description

Protection

Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto