This route climbs the South Gossip via a crack system on the right side of the west face. Like many of the routes in Arches, the start is soft, sandy, and spooky. Unlike many of the routes in Arches, the rock on the rest of this climb is mostly excellent and almost feels like wingate in places.

Pitch 1  Climb through the soft rock either in a right facing corner or to the right of the corner. Youre aiming for a wide crack which is followed to a comfortable belay ledge. Belay from a fixed anchor. A variation climbs the thin crack to the right at 5.11d to the same belay. 5.11 or 5.10, C1  (It may even be 5.9 but the start is hard to rate)

Pitch 2  Step right around a pillar and follow a beautiful crack up an acute dihedral to the base of the summit block. Belay from a fixed anchor on a ledge. 5.11 or 5.9, C1

Pitch 3 - A couple interesting free moves access a bolt ladder which leads to the top. C1

Rappel the Route

Be There or Be Talked About

West Face

Lyon Trautner Route

Speak  No Evil

Climb the crack system just to the right of West Face Route, for three pitches.

The West Face climbs the most obvious dihedral on the west(away from the road) face of the three gossips, and climbs to the head nearest the road.  The correct dihedral is a stellar looking handcrack with no visible fixed anchors from the base.  Be careful to find washes to reach the base-there is a lot of crypto soil and not much of a trail.

Pitch 1 - climb fingers and hands through some bulges to a big bulge just before the anchor.  There are some fixed pins at a ledge halfway up the pitch.  5.10 or awkward C1, 100'

Pitch 2 - climb a varied crack over a bulge, move left one crack system, and head over a bulge to a 5.7 squeeze chimney.  5.11 or C1.  I placed everything from a blue alien to a 5 camalot on this pitch.  130 feet, belay between the heads of the gossips.  The anchor is about 30 feet to the right of the pitch, but a good directional can be set up with large cams.

Pitch 3 - climb a sandy poorly protected slab 5.7 to the big chimney.  Tunnel in and climb unprotected to the top 5.5  70 feet, a few medium cams is all you get.

A single rope rap gets you to the shoulder.  Walk over to the station, and two double rope raps put you on the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Three Gossips