Edges and a pocket or two lead to an indentation; then follow glorious pockets through an overhanging bulge. Pockets disappear briefly at the top of the bulge; find the edges. Keep it together and don't use

The Tree of Shame

.

Update 2018:

Tree of Shame

has ceased to be. It is an ex-tree.

Browncoat

Captain Mal

The Alliance

Firefly

The Companion

Captain Tight Pants

Jubal

Damage My Calm

Stolen Rope

Black Market Beagles

Captain Hammer

Out of Gas

Oh Captain! My Captain!

Canceled

Too Pretty to Die

Shindig

Bushwhacked

Out to the Black

Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal

A harder-than-it-looks sequence off the ground to clip the second bolt, then fun, but somewhat tricky climbing to a short section of lower-angled rock. The lower-angled rock then steepens to vertical as you approach the intimidating roof. Just keep telling yourself it really is .10a as you grope for holds over the roof and maybe even catch a little air.

Pumpy with big moves between big holds (pockets and edges) on somewhat crumbly rock. Choosing the correct path to the dastardly ledge near the end is probably the crux. After the ledge pockets lead to the chains.

Climb

Firefly

for ten bolts. Head left toward the red-painted hanger. Find the good holds that lead to a position below the roof.

Search out unlikely holds and craft a plan of attack for the roof (but don't dawdle  the position below the roof is positive but a bit strenuous).

Once your feet are over the roof it's big holds to a final, not-too-difficult-but-never-the-less-exhilarating mantel-esqe move onto a big ledge and the chains.

If you use longer draws on the bolts of

Firefly

, and continue to do so up until the roof the rope drag will be minimal.

70m Rope Required

A steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section).

From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top ledge, and from there it's another ten feet or so to the chains.

Note that at the tenth bolt you keep heading up and slightly right rather than left onto

The Alliance

.

70m Rope Required

A cruiser beginning leads to a bulge with a reachy move from a huge pocket. After the bulge a short, lower-angled section leads to a steeper section above that is surmounted using mostly edges with the occasional pocket.

A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of

Out of Gas

to the top.

Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending

Captain Tight Pants

is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.

Low angle start steepens into a fun, vertical, next-to-an-arete climb using edges, pockets, and the arete to the right.

A steep start using good pockets and a positive edge or two leads to a bulgy ledge, followed by a pocketed, edged, and sidepull-containing vertical section on suspect-looking rock to the chains.

A slightly tricky start leads to fun climbing with pockets to a ledge. Off the ledge many positive pockets await, with a sequency bit, then wonderful pockets, then a dearth of pockets right at the top before the ending ledge.

A desperate, true pump-fest with big reaches between big (but sometimes inobvious) holds. The clock is ticking from the moment you leave the ground, so don't dally looking about for holds.

A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.

Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for

Shindig

) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.

After the ledge climb next to the left-facing flake, marveling that the flake isn't coming off.

A tenuous couple of moves right before the chains and then it's over.

Good pockets with poor feet lead to a real treat of a roof that taxes your rapidly waning endurance and tests your body positioning creativity. Once over the roof  increasingly better pockets and jugs lead to the chains.

Gradually steepening start to an intimidating stopper move or two on small holds with difficult feet. After the fright it's easier (but still a bit technical) climbing to the chains.

A somewhat strenuous, near-vertical starting section using less-than-fully-positive pockets (but good feet) leads to a good rest, followed by the ending section of

Damage My Calm

.

After the fifth bolt, head fairly sharply to the right, over to the penultimate bolt of

Damage My Calm

(which bolt is in the only truly solid rock in the neighborhood, hence the unfortunate rightward jog).

A long draw on the 5th bolt and then another on the next one on

Damage My Calm

would lessen any rope drag.

A line that climbs better than it looks. Follow the right-facing corner using pockets and edges. The farther from the corner you stray the harder it gets. In a few spots I put the bolts a little farther to the right than I would have liked, but the rock was more solid there.

A steep start leads to an overhanging section with large, positive holds. Once over the overhanging bit the angle eases a bit, but the climbing is never-the-less challenging and fun with pockets, edges, and the occasional sidepull.

A relatively casual first half leads to a steepening section where the holds get smaller, harder-to-find, and are pointed in less-than-helpful directions. Concentrating on feet, and looking for the best of the pockets keeps it sub-5.10. A fun outing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eavesdown Docks