Mediocre face climbing up a broken crack system.

 Construct a gear anchor at the top. When finished, walk 30 feet to climber's left and rappel Good Beginner Lead or First Light.

Ernie's Ladder

Good Beginner Lead

Prow

Sleeptalker

First Light

Nappin

Tarzan

Pizan

Second Wind

Solito

Valerie's Book

Black Cleft

Way Gone

Steep punchy climbing up a juggy thin-hands crack. Mantel onto the arete and finish on Good Beginner Lead clipping one bolt en route to the two-bolt anchor.

Consider this a temporary descriptive name until someone comes forward with details.

 Climb the blocky right-leaning crack to a stance on the arete. Clip a bolt and face climb up to the two-bolt anchor.

This is a pretty good crack+face climb with an exciting finish, making it a decent choice for budding trad leaders.

 Follow the stepped roofs up and right and pull the bulge into the crack above. Follow the crack up to the exciting finish: a short, airy roof crack. Two-bolt ring anchor on top.

Obvious finger crack to the left of Valerie's Book. Good crack starts about halfway up the wall.

Obvious arete with balancy and pumpy moves to the anchor.

Bolted climb immediately to the right of Valerie's book. Starts on somewhat ledgy terrain to first bolt at small overhang, onto ramp, then up face to the left of the arete to anchor.

This route ascends the string of broken incipient cracks on the face just left of First Light. It's not unsafe, but considering the grade, gear can be a little tricky in spots.

 Construct a gear anchor at the top. When you are done, walk 10 feet to climber's right and rappel First Light. Or walk off to climber's left.

Bolted climb to the right of Pizan. Starts in a crack system. Can place a #1 Camalot-sized piece in the crack before first bolt. Continue up very nice face past horizontals to ledge and penultimate bolt. Continue up (clip bolt on right), then left around arete to anchor shared with Pizan.

this route is the large left facing open book on the left side of the canyon.  climbs up an easy face to a tight hands/hand crack.  trad anchor at the top, and walk off the ramps. behind.  the crux is low and well protected.

Fun face climbing over and around two overhangs.

This is the right most bolted line in the Valerie Book Area. it follows the blank steep face straight up. Just right of Tarzan. This thing is hard, don't expect a jack's canyon or flagstaff give me here. Consistent hard moves in the v5-6 range the whole way up with one decent rest at the bottom of the climb. 

  Could be Promised Lands hardest??

This wall is in shade for the winter months, but during other seasons gets afternoon sun.  Most routes on this wall are moderate, 5.6-9+.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Valerie's Book Area