This is the climb that everybody in Reno learns to lead trad on.  Old shcool 5.7, so if your not used to climbing crack, will feel like hard 5.9.  The crux is the ten foot hand crack about 20' up.  Ultra Classic to the area.

UNR Crack

Head Case

School Stinks

Karl's Variation

Just to Watch Him Die

Ye’ Ol’ Top Rope

Summer Session

On Safari

Van Down By The River

Mr. Bigglesworth

Africa Flake

Spring Break

Improbable

Total Recall

Drunken Sporto's

Karls Crack

Short.  Bouldery, slopy start to a horizontal crack.  Traverse left on crack and make big move to verticle crack pocket.  Put first piece in here.  Continue up twin cracks making balancy moves.  Another Crux after twins.

The physical crux is right at the first bolt.  The mental crux is getting to the fourth bolt.  Feels really airy.  Don't go straight for the fourth bolt, but head left then up. 

  At the bulge by the fourth bolt, be careful.  Up untill this point the rock is high quality.  It's a little chossy through here, nocked a block off with my foot once. Belayer should be careful.

some sweet face climbing, then mantle onto the ledge and continue up the finger to hand crack. there are a couple of old useless buttonhead bolts on the ledge that need to be removed.

At first ledge, slot blue tcu (bad) or nut and make balancy move.  Next crux is the last crack seem before the crack ends.  Then head right and up final seem to ledge on Carl's.

Start up some slopers to a hard mantle move.  Make a balancy move to some crimpers to the right of the arete and then finish up on a broken crack.  Not to much protection, much better as a top rope.  You can walk around to the left and scramble up some 4th class to top rope.

A fun top rope route. Scramble far right up River Rock to the top of Head Case to find a pair of older but good condition anchors at the base of a boulder. Easy to set up anchors while sitting in a spot almost shaped like a bench complete with a spot to put your legs.

 The route can start at the base of Head Case for a sturdy belay Or it can start inside the crack gulley and possibly even lower (would add ~20ft). We started at Head Case and immediately climbed up the boulders to the right toward a series of vertical cracks. Hang out on the corner of the face and slightly inside the cracks for solid holds or mix and match crack climbing to make it harder. Crux is after the first few steps above those boulders staring at a jug pointing away from you. After that it’s a combination of great foot holds, some hand cracks and jugs. Can climb all the way up to the shelf below the anchors or all the way up to the anchors. Easy clean and rappel. Beware of getting rope stuck in some of those cracks on the shelf to avoid a lot of back and forth.

Start up a finger crack, using feet to the left to make it easier or sticking to the crack to ratchet the grade up a bit. Then follow the bolt line to the anchor. Crux is off a ledge about halfway up that requires careful studying of high feet, the left arete, and a hidden jug. It's summer school but you still have to pay attention.

Easy. Good Warm Up. A little run out at the top, but easy moves.

 This is a trad route with a bolted face start to a crack system. The arete is a commonly done as a 5.4 variation.

Two bolts lead to an intermittent crack system, with the crux leaving the short finger crack. Another bolt will take you to the anchors. This route protects well but don't miss/skip any of the gear placements (finger-sized and smaller cams).Easy to scramble around left to set up a toprope, if you're not feeling the lead.

This is the aid route (Deliverance on the Truckee A2, led by Aaron Silverman in 95) in the Falcon guide book, and a long standing top rope before that. 

  First crux is right at the second bolt, but is well protected.  The main crux is at the bottom of the small seam.  The crux is establishing your feet at the base of the seam.

WARNING: This is the old rating before the Africa Flake broke off... Alot harder now and height dependent. That being said, can be a really fun climb. The crux now is getting to the first bolt without the flake. If you are under 5'11", you might want to start on Karls crack, put a few pieces in, and traverse right over to the second bolt. Make some good, slight overhanging moves. Get to good ledge and traverse right. Make hard unprotected moves up crack (Bring Trad). Finish on chains.

Really Fun climb. Start up the finger crack/dihedrial to a ledge.  Clip first and only bolt (Bolt is for Total Recall).  Start up the windy crack system.  Balancy moves.  Chains at the top.

Start on Spring Break. Work up the easy finger crack to a ledge and make first clip.  Now head left to next bolt.  Good moderate moves lead to a horizontal crack/ledge for your hands.  Long, crimpy moves to the top.

If you stay on bolt line, it's ok.  Can be fun top rope of you do the right side of the arete.

When you come to the base you will see a really thin crack.  This is the start.  You can also do the start of African Flake (to the right, ledge system), but this really takes away from the experience.  Make hard moves up to the horizontal crack.  Continue up.  You will come to a good rest ledge with a bulge above you. Crux time.

Granite crack climbing. Really good place to learn how to lead trad. Easy to top rope a lot of the climbs. In the colder months, can get really crowded. West facing, so in the sun most of the afternoon.This is privately owned land. It is located in Sierra County and is owned by Truckee Meadows Water Authority (TMWA).This wall in the River Rock area is sometimes referred to as "Lower River Rock."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall