A delicate and touchy slab climb up the SE face of

Elephant Rock

. Chimney the back or climb the front of the large boulder, then ascend the slab using rounded holds and sloping feet. With a mid-point crux, there are just enough features to get this done.

Tres Amigos

Wash Out

Pretzel Logic

Sinsemilla

Rye Crisp

Columbian Crack

Just Say No

The Pygmies Got Stoned

Heironimous Bosch

Wheat Thin

A hard start with no gear leads to jugs and no gear, then lower angle climbing to a series of cracks flakes and flares.  Gear is not plentiful, but once a crack is reached, an experienced trad leader will probably feel ok about it.   Not for so one aspiring to the grade or to placing gear, however.

This mixed route starts to the right of Rye Crisp 5.8.  Climb a runout slab to the first bolt.  The hard sections are protected by bolts.

There are four bolts on the lower face.  Lieback a wide crack to a groove which is protected by bolts.  Pull out of the groove on the left and run it out to the top.

This route starts near the beginning of Just Say No 5.9-.  Climb up and right on runout but moderate face climbing.

The run out climbing is on positive holds,  stay strong.  The upper roof is staight forward and gear is had after pulling the roof.  Load up on gear and run it out another 30ft to the anchor.

A good runout test piece for the moderate leader.

This climbs the obvious lower and then upper flakes that face the left.  These jagged shards of granite beg to be enjoyed.  If you have the gear, do not go home without doing this route.  Consistent, long and varied.  Laybacks hand-stacks, foot stacks, finger jams.  BEEEE-you-tiful

Aaahh, the good stuff!  This crack is good, and long!  On the east side of

Elephant Rock

is the fence marking private property. Forty feet past the fence is a large boulder which forms a chimney with the face.  There is a nice hand crack coming down into this chimney but not all the way to the ground.  This is the Columbian Crack.

Start up the chimney toward the crack.  A good option for protecting this start is to go around to the east side of the boulder before you start up and toss your rope over.  Have your belayer belay from this side.  Then you are essentially on TR until you get to the crack.  Climb up to the top of the chimney and step out onto the boulder.  Have your belayer come back around to the inside of the chimney.  Now you are ready to go!

Follow the ever-widening crack to the top, passing one old SMC bolt and finishing at another single bolt.  Belay at this bolt (I think you can probably get some other gear in around here, but I don't remember exactly).

Rappel off the anchors for

Just Say No

, or walk off the south side.

This is the left most route of bolts on the Northeast side, just right of a large chimney.  The 1st clip is tenuous and the hanger is loose, so take your time (as I found out) and gain the height needed to clip properly.  It get's runout near the top but it also eases up.  Utilize that left arete when neede, although it isn't as much help as you would think.

This sport climb starts to the right of Wheat Thin.  You can start from the upper ledge or from the dirt.  Well protected face and slab climbing is the name of the game.  A good climb to do while waiting in line for the nearby trad classics. Enjoyable moves and position...

Begin on top of a large boulder, then traverse a rail out right to the high, first bolt. Dicey, delicate slab moves climb a well-protected face to the crux around the fourth or fifth bolt. Figure out this tricky, steep section and climb easier terrain to a surprise finish.

Slabtastic maneuvers!

This beautiful route climbs the thin flake feature right of Rye Crisp.  It is easier than it looks, but just as high quality.

Wander up the easy flake system until it steepens.  Jam and face climb up this wonderful feature until you are back on 3rd class ground.  Bring a 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes to rap from any of a number of fixed anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Elephant Rock - East