This is one of the nicer climbs in the area. I'd recommend stick clipping the first bolt. Climb straight up the arete to gain the first bolt. Continue past 3 more bolts using the arete and face holds on the right of the arete to reach the shuts.

Coordinate Covalent Bonding

Learning to Fly

Spock Lives

Dean Was Here

Footloose and Finger Free

Jesus in Tevas

Covalent Bonding

Nick of Time

Battle of the Bulge

Nightmare's Right Side

Dreaming

Nightmare

Climb past the face to gain a blank section. Make a big move to an excellent hold. Make an interesting mantle and head to the large ledge at the top with anchors.

From the guidebook: 

  Start between the start of DREAMING and NIGHTMARE. Climb stemming out between the two vertical surfaces of the wall on the left and the dihedral on the right to Broadway Ledge, 20 ft.

Climb the arete and ascend the right side of the overhang, continue to the end of the good rock and then lower down from anchors on FOOTLOOSE AND FINGER FREE.

Right most sport climb on Right Main Wall. Start on the face just to the right of the 1st drillmark, 10 ft left of the left facing inside corner where Dreaming starts.

This is another that you probably want to stick clip the first bolt.  Climb up to gain the first bolt.  From here, smear your way up until you can dyno for a great hold (crux).  From here, pass a nice mail slot hold and reach the final face.  2 crimpy holds on the final face allow you to make a reach to the big ledge at the top.  Brush this route if you want a sporting chance of getting it clean.

This is the same climb as Coordinate Covalent Bonding with two exceptions.  1. It starts farther right  2. At 4th bolt go slightly right and then up to the ledge Probably closer to 11a than 10a

Climb up the face, passing a few good shallow horizontal holds to reach a stance.  Make a few slabby moves to reach the 2nd bolt to the right of the small overhang.  Make some reachy moves using some slopping holds to gain a stance above the overhang.   Continue on easier terrain for a few moves to reach the anchors.

Climb the outside bulge of the dihedral of NIGHTMARE then climb the wall to Broadway Ledge, 20 ft.  

 There is no good way to set up a Top Rope from the top of the cliff due to loose rock. Please use anchors on Nightmare’s Right Side.

This route is located on the far right side of the right wall and climbs passed 3 bolts on a short textured wall to Broadway Ledge and shares anchors with Spock Lives.

Start in the left facing inside corner made where the The Right Main Wall makes a 90 degree turn. Climb the left facing inside corner to Broadway Ledge and then traverse to the left, 20 ft. to the anchors on Footloose. There is no good way to set up a Top Rope from the top of the cliff, there is a lot of loose rock.

Start under the center of the wall in a left facing inside dihedral. Climb the inside dihedral and the wall above to Broadway Ledge, 20 ft. 

 There is no good way to set up a Top Rope from the top of the cliff due to loose rock. Please use anchors on Nightmare’s Right Side.

Mostly short sport routes on sandstone faces that have exposed drill marks that were used to excavate the stone with explosives.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Right Main Wall