WARNING: The second bolt is very loose (this is the reason for the PG-13 rating). It should be rebolted. It seems to be a case of a too short bolt in a poorly formed hole.

This is the rightmost route at the wall. It starts in a wide crack and continues up an arete on large smooth pockets.

Machine Gun Jubblies

Quasi-Evil

Dr. Evil

Mini Me

Shaguar

Swedish Penis Enlarger

Bong and a Blintz

Foo - ook Yu

Gr8 Shag

Bong

Foo - ook Mi

Scotty

Swinger

Fat Bastard

Shmoke and a Pancake

Oh Behave!

Groovy Baby

Felicity Shagwell

Soul Bossa Nova

Shags Very Well

Ivana Humpalot

Sharks with Lazers

Dixie Normas

Foxy Cleopatra

Dixie

Robin Spits

Not My Bag Baby

Shmoke

Pure Evil

Ivana

Robin Swallows

Scotty Don't

A fun warm up route on the far right side of this feature.

Climb the edge of the flake and go straight up the bulge

Another fun face climb.  This one starts out fairly easy but as the angle tips back the moves get harder.  The pump begins to mount.  Low anchor before Pure Evil, the extension.

Original route at this wall. Holds felt a little sharper than the nearby routes.

Intro slab climbing to the steep(ish) break. Climb for 3 bolts of steeper moves that are on sharp pockets with challenging feet. Holds are far and several beta sequences can be utilized. This route is posted as 12a, but it felt harder than Shag, to the left and definitely harder than Fat Bastard. Maybe 12b/c as Shag.. but different style (less gymnastic)... definitely a fun one on all natural rock.

***Route just has hangers and rings.. no climb tech anchors like most other routes here.***

Awesome route. Delicate, involved slab climbing leads to some big juggy pulls through the overhanging wave with a definitive crux on pockets laying in wait. Excellent climbing.

The Route starts out moderate and gets harder as you go. It has cleaned up nicely from what I have been told.

There is an extension into a 13a if you are looking for more.

Extension to Bong. Pull some big moves on small pockets through the buldge and just when you think the hard climbing is done it gets harder...

Tricky start on sharp slabby black rock, with straightforward climbing above the start. Climb to the first anchors below the bulge. 12c extension to the 2nd set of anchors.

The climber begins by stepping out left off the shelf and onto the wall.  The crux comes quickly and requires steely fingers and a tight core.  Stick clip the 2nd bolt to be safe, as this is a tough clip.  Cruise up the wall on pockets and edges aiming for the dihedral at the left edge of the upper bulge.  The holds dissappear so you will have to be creative.  No lower anchor on this one.  Fun!

The belayer should probably be down in the hole. It's flat and there's plenty of room to spread the rope out, plus you'll be better positioned to catch falls from the low crux.

Grab that big ass pocket and smear your feet on.  A small pocket helps you reach the clipping hold for the first bolt.  I would suggest a stick clip, as this is a pretty tough move.  Continue up the wall on some pretty crispy (sharp-ish, ouch!) pockets.  Only 6 clips on this one which may seem a bit sporty at times.  Sport anchor below the bulge.

Climb Fook Yu which ends at the first set of anchors.  Keep going trending a bit left up the left edge of the scoop on good little pockets.  Good clipping stances but powerful climbing in between.  May be a bit hard for .12c

Scotty is another decent pocket pulling vertical climb.

Fat Bastard starts off a small boulder to the left of the big flake with Groovy Baby and Swinger. Easy climbing off big pockets on the slab leads into the overhang. Several holds have been filled in, making what used to be a fun 5.11d into a very stretchy and gymnastic climb with big dead points and dynos. Can be very difficult for short people. It felt roughly 12b to me.

Crikeys!  This is fabu-fricking-tastic!

Climb the intro Shmoke, which ain't too bad either, aiming for that crack splitting the bulge.  Rest a bit and go for it.  It's a bit of a sprint through the bulge as long as you know how to do it.  Good luck if its your first go.  Techy through the upper headwall and easy to blow it.  This is a sweet pitch!

This climb shares the first two moves with Dixie but goes left to a generous edge.  Wander your way up the wall on good pockets and edges reminiscent of the other routes to the right.  There is no lower anchor, so get ready to giddy up when you reach the bulge.  This is a rad sequence that involves a cross into a deep mono and a huck to a good pocket.

11b in the guidebook, but that must have been before "alterations". The route was not red-tagged when we tried it, but it had couple pockets filled in with grey concrete. You cannot see the filled-in pockets from the ground, but the most notable is the clipping hold for 4th bolt, making the clipping much more difficult than the 11b grade.

The fall there will likely have unpleasant consequences, because of the slabby flake below. The rest of the filled in pockets up high don't make much of a difference.

Fun climbing right from the start.  Pockets and edges leading up to the scoop and a set of Climb Tech hooks.  Great and maybe a bit easy for 5.11a.

Starts on a black slab for the first couple bolts, them climbs the ever steepening yellow rock, getting progressively harder.

Climb Felicity Shagwell to the first set of anchors at the base of the scoop.

The climbing tilts back and the good times begin.  Great pockets and super movement.  Don't futz about or you will get pumped out and she'll boot your butt out into space.  This one stays on you until the bitter end.  Treat her right and she'll reward you handsomely.

Where is the fifth star?? or maybe even a sixth...  This is my favorite on the wall.

Not many pockets on this one but there are good ones where you need them.  I found and cleaned all the holds on this route and it still took some serious effort to figure out how to climb it.  It's quite difficult, but as usual, the right sequence...  Do this route!!!

Btw, I skipped #11, no friggin' way I could clip it.  The fall is exhilerating.  (Maybe I'll move that bolt down a bit)

Good line up an interesting slab and then into a fun overhang. Fun moves, although some of the feet are still cleaning up and I had a few chip off on me. The anchor could definitely use an upgrade as of July 2019 it's a bolt with a single chain on it.

Extension to Dixie... just like the other extensions get ready to power through on pockets and maybe a mono or two.

The bolted route directly right of Soul Bossa Nova. This climb is still pretty fresh and should be climbed with caution as rocks are still exfoliating from the surface. Begin on a black, techy slab and gain the easier terrain a couple of bolts above, continue up and onward into the great unknown, plant your feet, rip those pockets off the wall, and power upward gaining some better holds.

As with many routes at the Powers Wall, this route has an extension (5 bolts I believe) leading you up into the thinner and much harder belly of the wall. For the full package rack up 15 draws plus anchors and prepare to fight for this one.

Same first two moves as Oh Behave but head right to the big pocket.  Match in this to clip and make big committing moves.  Sequencing this correctly is key here.  This one feels more taxing and sustained than the others to the right.  Sporty Climb Tech hooks below the bulge.

From top of dirt platform, climb to flake/ ledge and cruise straight up.

The bite is at the end. Mostly low .11 cruising.

Climb Swedish Penis Enlarger to the low anchor and continue up the clean headwall.  Small holds and powerful pulls lead to tough finish.

A fun moderate romp up the lower wall on good pockets and edges.  You are aiming for the crack that splits the bulge.  Sport clips below the bulge.  This is a fun first pitch.

This one zigs right and then back left when the crack ends.  Easy-ish climbing until the angle changes.  There are some powerful pulls but the holds are pretty good.  Had to climb this one a bunch to send Humpalot.  I liked it more each time I went up the route, I hope you do too.

"So which is it baby? Spits or Swallows"  A. Powers

Oh snap, this one is good!!  Spits is quite the gem but Swallows is a pure unadulterated good time.  There are some big moves on this one.  If you are tall and strong. this is for you, easy peazy.  Shorter and you're going to have to get creative.  I'm 6' and it felt like .13a.  Keep telling yourself, I'm a hero, like Robert Dinero.

Climb Scotty to the first anchor and blast through the bulge on good little two-finger pockets.  Steep and powerful in the bulge and continuing up the slightly overhung headwall on more little two-fers.  Great and kinda hard!

Description

Protection

Routes in Powers Wall