Super sweet jams and a few fun ways to exit this line at the top

Slung Monkey

Zenolith

Unknown

Black Sunday

Pam's Jam

Sunrise Blossom

Worm

Weightless Friend

Facist Pig

Mixed Feelings

Banana Crack

Live Oak

King of Pain

Two Cams and a Jam

upper tier routes:

Desert Bloom

Mystical Adventures

Gold Buckle Dreams

Anarchist's Delight

Fabulous Fables

Palo Verde

Political Asylum

Cat Claw

lower tier routes:

Crossroads

Wish You Were Here

Banana Split

Pomey Direct

Hand crack, fun but not of the best quality

Knobby face climbing straight up past 3 bolts to top.

Start on a less than vertical face and pull onto the rock using good feet, but barely-there hands.  High feet and body tension needed to move upwards.  Stay more right, the rock is better.  slap up to the horizontal break and add some funk to get established under the black streak water chute.  Fun stemming past 1 bolt through the chute leads to a 2-bolt anchor.

In the 3-sided alcove, right leaning crack.

There's no way I can imagine this hasn't been climbed as it's close proximity to the main crag. However, after looking through all available guidebooks and maps and even a couple of messages to the older local trad climbers, I got nothing. So a first known ascent it is.Some good jams and nice layback movements will carry you up this seam.

Short hand crack.  Getting off the ground is the hardest part.

Fun route with a couple jams and some nice crimps. Some soft rock in an intermittent crack make the pro finicky but adequate.

Start up Two Cams and then forge right on the wide crack.  When the crack goes horizontal, climb straight to the top.  Diverse moves make this an interesting route.

Thin crack right of a large block in the horizontal fissure

Face climb past 2 Blots, right of Facist Pig.

This is a nice crack route at the grade. The crack pinches off at the top, so you might not be getting those bomber pieces in the last ten feet. Wide crack start with face holds, then jam straight up, using pockets in the upper half. Ten feet from the top, the crack is no more and you have to face climb the rest of the way. Meticulous face climbing will get you there!

this is to mark routes which are on the upper tier of Cactus Flower East

There's no way I can imagine this hasn't been climbed as it's close proximity to the main crag. However, after looking through all available guidebooks and maps and even a couple of messages to the older local trad climbers, I got nothing. So a first known ascent it is. 

 Desert Blossom. A nice little 5.5 cruise on super clean rock with great gear and nice jams. This is an ideal route to learn to plug some cams and get some great feeling hand jams. 

Face climb past 1 Bolt to a horizontal crack, then to top.

A thin splitter with a bolt at the start.  Crux is getting to the chicken head. 

Hand crack turns to seam and fun footwork.

Crux is at the bulge moving past the horizontal crack.  Fun liebacking on the bottom half, jamming on the top.

Traverse undercling crack-like flake, left to right.

Crux is the beginning which is a face climb though there is plenty of good feet and even hands.  Face climb to short off width.

This is to mark the start of the lower tier of Cactus Flower East

Lie back flake to ledge, step left behind Ape's head then finish past angling crack with great 0.75bd placement to top.

Right of Zenolith, follow set of 2 Bolts up face to top.

Cactus Flower East is a low-slung wall of cracks and face climbs located to the north and a little east of the main Peak area. There are a number of routes here on crystalline desert granite. The classic testpiece of the area is the ultra-thin King of Pain.There are several sets of anchors at the top of these routes and there is a side trail to the far right of the rock faces making this a Top Rope area as well as Trad.There are two distinct tiers here, you can scramble up the top of the lower tier from the left on easy 3rd class or you can follow a trail along the bottom of the cliff, and around and up the right hand side to the right end.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cactus Flower East