An eight pitch line up the best rock in the center of Mamie Peak.   A techy three pitch slab leads to five spectacular and exposed pitches up the center of a knob and crack riddled buttress.  Sustained 5.10 face, friction and crack climbing with a couple 5.11- cruxes for good measure.  Protection is generally excellent and most hard moves could be pulled through if need be.    See topo for pitch details.

The route is easily and quickly rapped with a single 70m rope. On the big ledge find the rappel anchor about 30' to climbers left of the top of Pitch 3.  The sixth pitch has a tendency to eat ropes while rappelling.  To avoid this place a leaver biner on the second bolt and have the last person down clip the pull strand through the biner.   Several rappels are near the full 35m, tie backup knots!

Ellation

Woodland Critter Christmas

Hail Satan

Blood Orgy

Several single pitch climbs exist on a nice buttress of rock near the base of Ellation.  Woodland Critters Christmas follows the obvious long fingercrack layback corner.  Chain anchor at top.

Balancy friction and face climb up the broad arete forming the right hand side of the crag.   Starts from ledge 25' off ground.  Some amazing small intrusions on this climb.

A nice handcrack up the center of a crag formed by a very large, very thin flake. Starts at a good ledge about 25' of the ground.   Best approach by rappel after climbing Woodland Critter Christmas or via a short pitch of 5.10 starting with Woodland Critter Christmas.  Chain Anchor at top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mamie Peak