For this route, go past the start of goats do roam to the next buttress lookers right, about 200 ft up hill. It is characterized by compact looking pink granite of higher quality than previous route. This starts in a shallow corner immediately above a large pine at base of cliff. Climb corner till it splits, stay left pull left past a bolt, moving up to a bulge and another bolt. Pull through this and onto a fun slab above and another bolt. Climb up this to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. The second pitch moves slightly right then up another slab by arête past another bolt and some gear, ending on a small ledge with a two bolt belay. Third pitch climbs straight up past a pin, then moves left around a small bulge, bolt onto a clean face. Follow this up and left, look for good gear in small slots and a couple more bolts to a semi hanging belay belay a steeper bulge above. The route may one day continue above this but at the time I had run out of battery power.....

Billy the kid

The nanny goat

Goats do roam

A boy and his goat

Rack of ram

The Charles Peterman memorial

After climbing the Charles peterman, you can top rope this fun little route on the left  side. I ran out of bolts so only top roped this climb, I plan on returning and bolting it one of these days...climb the steep start onto flakes, staying left of previous route, following an easier crack system to the tree anchor.

This route is on a smaller feature one drainage back towards the trail head from the bills goat. Look for a smaller buttress with an obvious left facing arching corner system. There is a slab by wall to the left of this. The nanny goat starts at the left end of this wall at the base of a right facing corner. Start up this corner until it starts getting wide and loose, then move right onto a slab that has a crack / seam running vertically. Good gear, then move tenuously up through a small bulge and a bolt below a larger roof. Good gear in a flake below roof then make a hard and reach your pull around this then up to large ledge and two bolt belay. Rap with single rope to ground.

Start under the north west face of the pinnacle. On the right side of this is a shallow gully/corner with a small pine tree about 100 ft up. This is the first pitch, climb through an initial bulge fixed pin, then up easy stemming and gear to the belay, two bolts next to tree. From here, step left in rising traverse heading to the left arête of buttress, slab climbing past two pins and two bolts. Two bolt belay. Move awkwardly off belay then up to a step in the ridge and a bolt. Move right and up a flake system with some gear to another two bolt belay. Last pitch moves up onto the final saw toothed arête, moving carefully over loose terrain, there is another two bolt anchor in a notch on the left side of this ridge. This is an alpine rock climb that has loose rock on it. I cleaned a lot off it during the first few ascents but be aware of it and wear a helmet!

A companion route to billy the kid. Start as for billy the kid but instead of clipping first bolt, move right along a narrow ramp, fixed pin and bolt, till good holds lead straight up to a two bolt belay. The second pitch is easier, heading up and slightly right to a two bolt belay. Mixed gear and a bolt or two. The third pitch is the business, climbing up and right from belay heading to the large roof over head. The crux is stemming around a small bulge to a crack, move awkwardly right to the semi hanging belay. The rock above this is rotten so the route ends here.

At the same crag as the nanny goat, but on the right hand end, starting at the base of the obvious right facing corner. Climb up to a fixed pin, then a bolt. Hard moves are made up and left to a good crack and gear on left edge, up,to top and anchor sling on tree.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Billy Goat Buttress