Roulette Dares has sustained crimping on the West face of Ornery Bloc. SDS on right hand pocket and left hand block/gaston. Move up through crimps and pockets with weird right feet.

Roulette Dares

Repeater

The Grinch

South of South Dakota

Life During Peacetime

Erase the Skin

Sit-start with hands on two small crimps and a big heel hook with the left foot on the west side of the boulder. From there, make an unorthodox move to the prow of the arete and continue upward. The crux for me was getting the first two or three moves. This is just atypical for Unaweep bouldering.

This is also the first problem on the video posted under the Nine Mile Style area. I just thought it was a good problem, so I wanted to share.

Sit start with a large left hand volume and a right hand incut edge. From there, pull up to the arete, reach a right hand edge, follow to the lip, and mantel on top.

There may be a harder version of this that starts on a good edge below, but it's pretty cramped.

This also doubles as the boulder's downclimb.

Sit start with a left hand bump and a right hand sloper.  From there, work up the tiered arête using the bumps, sidepulls, and slopers.  Hit the crimp near the top of the arête, pop out right to a great jug, and top out the stegosaurus-like feature.

Life During Peacetime climbs a short, overhung face on solid edges.

Sit start matched on a pair of edges and a high left toe. From there, stick a right hand edge at the crack system, cross over and match on the same edge with a left hand, manage the foot cut and dab potential by placing a right heel hook at the arete, then continue straight up on good edges to reach an easy mantel.

Stand start matched on the sloping shelf. Place a right heel hook, move left through a pair of sloping pinches to gain the great diagonal shelf, don't let go of the heel, reach a right hand edge, follow to the lip, and mantel on top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ornery Block