Climb up under a roof, pull the roof on not so good pinches, then move toward the bottom of what looked to be a nice hand crack, then go up the crack to the top. A lot of horizontal cracks to use as well. All the cracks are dirty, but protection can still be placed. It looked like it was going to be an awesome crack, wasn't that awesome once I got up there. Maybe it will get better after some traffic?

It Looked Good

Dirty Secrets

Flying Butter

Flesh Wound

Brief Case

Humble Pie

Carnivorous Pika

Baby Thor

Butterfly Arete

Short Lived

A steep face climb, starting with thin crimps to a big horizontal crack, this is where you find the crux, moving from there up through some thin and fun moves (I used a heel hook at one point) until your feet are in the next big horizontal crack. From there just fun face climbing to the anchors.

There is a very hollow flake like section about 3/4 way up, but it feels solid and has been there for years.

Really fun route, watch for rope drag, as you move to the right quite a bit.

Start left of the arete, as you move up, move right to the arete. Then up through a little bit of a corner, then a really short traverse to the anchors.

Flying Butter ascends the shallow left facing corner past a few horizontal cracks to a nice ledge. Harder moves right off the ground, then gets easier. Bolted anchor is tucked away in the back of ledge.

Great route for new trad leaders or done as a top rope. Mostly small to medium gear.

Climb a shallow crack just left of Short Lived

Start by pulling a roof, go up a few moves, pull another roof, and you are at the anchors.

Use smears and underclings up to a finger crack in a corner. Follow the crack up, mantle up onto the ledge, then hop up the blocks to the anchors. Really no face holds in the crack section, good finger jams is a must.

Climb right facing corner until a bolt on the left, clip it, then move under it and up to the anchors

Butterfly Arete is the only sport route on this wall. It's very well protected with 4 bolts and it has it's own bolted anchor. It climbs a steep and technical arete and has several fun dynamic moves on positive horizontal holds.

Can easily be top roped by accessing from top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Butterfly Lake