I have yet to climb this problem, but being that it is the namesake of this area, I figured I'd add it. It's highball and supposedly involves a dyno that would be an ankle breaker if a miscalculation was made. Climb out the right side of the main prow feature.

When I get a chance to get back out there, I'll try to get more information and specifics of the line.

Spice Roof

Power and Balance aka Undercling

The Seam

Wilford Prow

The Seam 2

Unnamed V1

Spice Roof South

Below the obvious roof, get established on good holds on the blunt arete. Make some big moves on good holds through the roof to a good rail out left of the roof, and pull the lip on big holds. Some of holds may be friable, but all the hand holds felt solid to me. I could possibly see some foot holds exfoliating on this, so just be aware. Overall, I felt like the rock quality was decent.

Climb the middle roof starting on god holds to the lip. Get situated above the lip using power and balance. small positive holds to top out.

This is THE route of the area, oh so obvious, oh so good. It doesn't get much better than this.

Start under the roof where the first crux is climbing the initial wall without getting mice piss or poo on your hands (for a "clean" ascent - ahem) at the hand traverse at the base of the roof. Reach out and grab the lip. Prevent swing and fire for the choice edges higher. Pull over the roof and fire for the exquisite flakes along the Seam.

Enjoy the ride to the top on some of the nicest flakes you'll find north of Hueco Tanks.

Begin right of

Power and Balance

and move straight up using a thin side pull rail and some tricky foot technique.

I don't know who the FA was on this. There was chalk on the holds, so it's clearly been climbed before. If you have more details, message me, and I'll update.

Start as for

Wilford Prow

. When you get the right hand crimp, cross your left hand to a shallow crimp ledge. Lock off, and throw your right hand to the arete. Move your feet, and bump your right hand up to a nice, pockety crimp on the South face of the roof. Use the lower boulder for solid feet, and use two more crimps to reach the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Spice Roof