This route was put up by local grey haired (and tech impaired) climbers. It is a perfect way to link the classic lower climbs of the Watchtower and Pineapple Buttresses with popular climbs in the Sparerib area. Best to not leave equipment at the base of Silver Foxes as the direct walk back is difficult.

Pitch 1

:

(5.7, 120')

Climb 20' through a small overlap, then follow bolts up surprisingly good rock to the anchor. Fun pitch! 11 bolts,  a BD 0.2 helps, chain anchor.

Pitch 2: (

5.8, 90')

Continue face climbing; avoid a loose, ledgy area by following the bolt line to the right up to the anchor. 8 bolts, one BD #2 or 3 cam, chain anchor.

Optional P2 belay:

Climb 25' past P2 chains, and belay on the massive ledge right below the crux bulge to watch the excitement at the crux bulge. BD #1 and 4 cams for the belay.

Pitch 3

:

(5.10a/b, 110')

The money pitch! Delightful face climbing with one somewhat tricky and airy 5.10 bulge move. 7 bolts and a few BD cams 0.1-0.5". GEAR ANCHOR, BD #2-3 cams, and small stoppers, or just sling one of several bomber boulders/horns.

Pitch 3 alternative

:

(5.6, 110')

Fun, easy trad climb to the left of pitch 3. Gear from BD 0.5-4.

Descent

: Walk off 5 min uphill to the base of Sparerib and the main climbers trail.  Pitches 1 and 2 can each be rappelled with a 70 m rope.

Silver Foxes

Barefoot Servants

Vajra

The route starts 25 feet left of Silver Foxes and can be identified by a thin moderate looking rib of rock with an arete on the right and a water groove with a small tree on the left.

P1: 5.6 Climb up and right through small roof on crystal holds. Continue up rib to small ledge with a tree on the right. Gear anchor.

P2: 5.10 Follow wide cracks to a dihedral. Look left for attractive thin lightning bolt crack. Follow jug rail left into finger crack. At the end of the finger crack climb face holds up and left, around the corner to a large ledge. Bolted or gear anchor.

P3: 5.8 Climb dihedral/water grooves to a huge blocky ledge. Finish with a nice overhanging hand crack. Bolted anchor.

Another pleasant ramble with an excellent middle pitch characterized by technical movement and steep quality rock. Gear is all there and sound.

P1. Dragon Cloud Z. Follow scrambly 5.6 crack weakness to a gear belay about twelve feet below the roof with the bolt.

P2. Barefoot Servants. Climb wide crack to bolt. Prance through smears and edges, placing gear and enjoying the steep exposed nature of the pitch. This pitch demands a broad skillset including overcoming roofs, tips layback, sporty movement, fantastic jams and even a flared squeeze dihedral! Top out on an island in the sky with a two bolt anchor.

P3. Cheetoh Fingers. Finish on Vajra.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Watchtower - Upper