this is a slab climb with thin face holds and big committing moves passing bolts. I did not think it was quite as well protected as A Date with Dale, but the cruxes are protected.

Start at the top of the big detached flake that forms a chimney below you. Start up a somewhat loose flake and face climb 1st crux( 12a ). easier face climbing ( 11a to 5.10 ) trending right to a ledge, another crux that is committing steep and blank ( 12a ). 3rd crux near top with lower angle friction and reachy face holds trending right to shared anchor.

This route had just a exploratory cleaning, still very dirty as of May 2019.

Texas, My Milk Farm

Houseful of Hens

Leaves and Grass

You will see the big right facing dihedral with the line of bolts running up the right face on the southern toe of Gilligan's Toe.

This route follows a waterfall that is dry in the summer but very wet all winter.

Start up face climbing passing 3 spaced out bolts till you reach the corner.

Cramer describes the corner as insecure and difficult chimney/ stemming, with the top out being 5.9

This is the middle route with a left facing corner flaring groove.

The upper face climbing is the crux.

10a/10b in the Cramer book.

Which is either 5.10 or much harder if you don't find the easier path.

This stays pretty dry and dries off quickly after rain.

I also cleaned a alternate start even lower that pulls up through a burly undercling layback.

This is clean as of 6/5/19, but still has some maple branches up against the wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gilligan's Toe