An exciting route with some fixed protection to avoid gear placements that could result in dislodging a large flake. The first bolt is about 12 or more feet off the deck but can be stick clipped, reached uphill or use the new bolt just to the right that heads up Heretics Highway/Drills Thrill to protect a ground fall. There is Pro between bolts as needed. Follow the 2nd and 3rd bolts up the right side of the flake with excellent finger locks, foot jams and stemming. Stand on the pillar with a fixed pin from the 1970s (please leave it in place for historic purposes). Gear placements above the fixed pin can protect the traverse to the left as you enter corner to start the arete climb.  Look for 3 more bolts and some rare but bomber gear placements up the arete to a bold finish onto the upper chossy ledge system.  Bolted anchors can be found in 3 spots but the obvious set with chains and rap rings is directly above Kingpin.  Watch for loose rock that may rain down on your belayer, wear helmets and avoid poison oak.  30-25 meters

Kingpin

Piece of Cake

Labyrinth

Time Bandits

Lay Lady Lay

Scarlet's Begonia

Waters Edge

Slow Train

Arrested Development

Climbswell Butterflakes

Sweet Jane

Rip City

Ragtime

Hazy Daze

Moondog

Iron Cross (aka On the Move)

Hard Times

Tourist Crack

Drill's Thrill (aka Heretic's Highway)

Talk'n'LawyerKillerBluez

Secure Attachment

Garden Party

Separation Anxiety

Ramblin Rose

Boulder Problem in the Sky

Tourist Attraction

Somewhat high first bolt which can be alleviated with a nut and/or cam behind the flake. Climb the thin crack with stemming and odd holds up to the clip. Rails on the left face will make for occasional breaks in the otherwise tenuous stemming. The crack eventually seams out and the holds get small just before you arrive at a midway ledge. Pad your way delicately through the loose crumbliness and trend slightly right to join

Kingpin

. Balance your way up this section to a final minor crux to a ledge. The last section is easy but unprotected to a nice ledge and hardy anchor.

From the anchors at the top of Kingpin step left to Garden Party crack and follow this to a good ledge with one bolt. From the ledge continue up left to the edge of the bolted slab/overlap, the first few moves on to the slab are committing. It is recommended to clip the first bolt from the right side of the slab/overlap before attempting to surmount the slab. Continue up along the bolt line and step across a gap to the top anchor.

One can shorten the route and keep the grade to 5.8 (Garden Party) if you skip the bolted slab and move right to the anchor for Separation Anxiety and Hazy Days. This shorter route variation is called Garden Party and is an excellent line for the budding trad leader as nuts and cams can be placed every two feet if so desired.

Well-bolted route near the bottom but run-out at the top.  Look for small nut or cam placements near top of route before traversing slightly to "Hard Times" ledge.

"Excellent protection and climb.  Unfortunately, poison oak grows up the bottom of the climb every year." - Jeff Thomas

Traverse right from the Sweet Jane/Ramblin Rose belay anchors clipping a couple bolts until you are able to move up to a bolt out on the face. Good exposure and position add to the climb's appeal. Continue on up following the line of bolts on good edges using thoughtful movement to keep it within the grade. A thin slab section rounds out the finish to a set of anchors.

From the belay stance at the top of King Pin, traverse to the climbers right on easy but debris and vegetation filled ledges to a pair of bolts at the base of Arrested Development. Belay at the double bolts.

Climb up easy ledges 30 feet. Just before the wall above steepens move climbers right south to a large left facing corner. Climb corner for 15 feet then move slightly left and up a low angle slab and climb up 25 feet past a tree to the base of Tourist Crack. There is no pro on the slab for 15 to 20 feet but it is easy.

Instead of following the corner that forms Tourist Crack, climb just right of the prominent outside edge, which is just right of Tourist Crack. Near the top at the first bolt move left and follow the edge to a large belay ledge and a two bolt belay/rappel station that also serves Tourist Crack and the left side variation of Tourist Attraction.

Climb easy terrain up to the first bolt on the clean face. Continue straight up the bolt line (green color hangers) for the best climbing on nice edges and jugs. A fun under-cling shows up mid-route and the climbing ends all too soon. Combined with Tourist Attraction this is a great climb.

From the belay climb straight up through the double cracks to a shallow roof. Step over the roof following a thin low angle crack to a good stance below an arete. Step right and ascend the thin crack on to the face. At the first bolt move left and climb the arete past two more bolts to the anchors.

The upper bolted section of this line is shared with the route "Waters Edge".

Climbs well.... but her flakes! Dance up the flakes clipping any or all of the 10 bolts. There is one @1/2" gear placement which is optional but nice to have.

Clip the first three bolts on Ramblin Rose, and then move left clipping bolts up the steep face until a crux bulge is surmounted, and then the final slab to an anchor.  Either rap off the anchors here, or continue up an alternate route to the trail.

"Great climb except it has the same problem as Lay Lady Lay [poison oak]." - Jeff Thomas.  However, the route was cleaned and free of poison oak in 2016.

"Excellent protection and climb."-Jeff Thomas

From the Kingpin anchors follow a line of six bolts right and up to a good ledge and the start of a left facing corner. Follow corner protecting with small to medium wires or cams in the .4 to .5 range. At the top of the corner move left and up to the Separation Anxiety belay/rappel chains or step horizontally right onto a large ledge and the start of Tourist Attraction. The name comes from the fact that BC cleaned this route during the height of the fires and smoke of the September 2017 Eagle Creek Fire.

Easy face climbing and slight bulge may be crux but good pro. From Arrested Development anchors climb left towards the Slow Train route. 2 bolts at start. Gear placements in crack. Merge with Slow Train anchors or continue up Tourist Attraction.

"Pure stemming and good protection." - Jeff Thoams

Directly to the right of Tourist Attraction.  Climb the big dihedral's low-angle crack by stemming it out and plugging gear.  Due to the angle of this pitch, dirt and vegetation accumulates easily so bring a nut tool to clean out placements.  The top of the crack leads to a gravel-laden ledge with bolted anchors underneath the hiking trail.  Rappel or walk off.  Beware of knocking down loose rock on parties below!

Located just right of KingPin this route has shiny new bolts and ascends trending rightwards up the lower wall of the west face. The route offers easy entry but by bolt 7 the climbing starts to get real.

Exciting moves cut right from under the small roof and the remainder of the climb is crimpy and sustained.

A 0.75 or 1.0 Camalot might be useful but not necessary.

Note that this route is new as of this year and could use a significant amount of cleaning as holds are still forming or disappearing depending on ones perspective.

Numerous bolts, plenty of gear, a fixed pin, some free bits, plenty of aid, some poison oak in a killer hand-crack, shit, its the west side, what exactly do you want, eh?

Start up Hazy Days and follow that route's first six fat shiny bolts until you reach the midway corner. Step left into thinner terrain and then directly up through more edging on a slab passing three more bolts to reach the shared top anchor.

An alternative is to climb up between Separation Anxiety and Hazy Days on easy 5.6 terrain using trad gear and then clipping the final three bolts through the technical slab. This option has a bit of a PG factor before the first bolt it clipped.

There’s a crux getting into the first crack, but good pro off the belay. The crack system above has some sequences that can be confusing on-sight. Gaston moves, finger locks, smears and mantle should help and place cams and nuts til you reach a bolt above the final crack moves.

Climb a shallow right facing corner directly above the Kingpin anchors past two bolts. After the second bolt climb broken rock to the start of a left facing corner that changes to a right facing corner. The well protected crux is at the point where the corners change.  Take a small cam or nut to protect in an excellent crack just after exiting the right facing corner. Ten to fifteen feet up the crack move out of the crack and up easy ledges to a fixed belay/rappel point.

Ramblin Rose is a delighful fingers to hands to fist crack.  Face climbing past 3 bolts leads to gear and a bulge to get you to the crack. The crack starts thin and progresses through the rack to a fists at the top.  Great jams, a real treat.

"Some think the stemming at the start of the crux pitch is more difficult than the roof, yet everyone falls off at the roof." - Jeff Thomas

A slab route with two climbing options - left of the bolt line (5.8) - or right of the bolt line (5.10a). The bolts were place between the two variations to prevent two separate bolt lines. One of the protection bolts near the top of the slab has a chain and ring to make it easier to clip from the left side.

The left side of the slab ends at two Metolius rap hangers just below a small fir tree. Note that these hangers are made for rappelling. Just run your rope through the hangers, no rap rings required. Climbers are urged not to fourth class up to the trail because of threatening loose rocks. Please use the Metolius anchors and rappel the route to avoid knocking loose rocks onto hikers on the trail below.

The right side of the slab merges with Tourist Crack and both end on a ledge at a belay/rappel station. Either climb up 15 feet to the west side trail or rappel to the ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face