Starting on the same holds as for Sholan Showdown, this dynamic route heads up the much more blank section of the wall on the far right side. After established on the first few holds, get a high foot out left, and reach to a lefthand sidepull pretty high up. Work up and slightly to the right to a very good left hand crimp and a mediocre right hand, and from here, make a sizable jump to the lip of the rock. From here, it would be nice to top out directly, but there was far too much lichen for that, so we opted to traverse out left to meet with the top out of Sholan Showdown.

Sholan Short Hop

Chin Diaper

Sholan Showdown

First Impressions

Tooth

Open Project

Everything's A Jug

This terrific line climbs up the most featured portion of the wall using a dynamic set of moves and holds. Start with your hands on the furthest right set of holds in the horizontal crack, and work your way left to a large gaston/sidepull rail. Continue straight up from there with one more big move, done either with a crimp out right and a very high left foot, or a committing deadpoint nearly 20 feet off the deck. The topout is fairly easy but still a little freaky so high off the ground.We also did a direct start that adds a neat move, marginally more difficult.The FA was done as a boulder problem but done on toprope as well.

The crux is right in the middle of the problem as you pull yourself up over the bulge. The landing to this problem slopes downhill, so having a spotter there to stop you from sliding down the hill is recommended.

Interesting climbing with a tricky crux at an overhanging bulge. Stem the right facing corner to the right of Tooth to a tricky bulge. Surmount the bulge, then traverse left with the finger crack to an easier topout. 

  This route requires a lot of cleaning but has interesting moves and mostly good rock.

This is a nice crack climb, lost in the wilderness behind Sholan Farms. The name of this route was posted on Rockclimbing.com. I have climbed it, and it is fun. Follow the gradually widening crack to an easy top-out.

There is an open project on the blank face 15 feet to the right of First Impressions. Getting off the ground is the crux as the crimps are small and terrible and the feet nonexistent. Holds get larger as you climb higher towards an obvious huge roof but they are never "great". Bring your iron fingers to send this one.... It's still awaiting a FA.

The problem runs right up the middle of the boulder from an obvious ledge and goes to a series of deep jugs. The topout is a little sketchy. Multiple pads are needed.

A large parcel of public land which includes the apple orchard and miles of trails behind it. There are numerous, scattered boulders, mostly of poor quality. There is a small cliff approximately 20 minutes hike from the main parking lot with decent route potential. Locals have described other rocks including a house-sized boulder that I have not been able to find. There are over 30 miles of trails here. At least one route has been established here according to rockclimbing.com.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sholan Farms