Technical and balancey. Follow the bolt line in the middle of the face on small flakes and crimps.

Fear and Loathing

Lichen and Lov'n It!

Chalk Board

Salt and Pepper

Gription

Self Potential

Nut Job

Fear of the Gumby

This is the bolt line immediately left of Fear and Loathing. Another technical face climb with a finish through an intimidating roof. You can skip the roof and finish early at the Fear and Loathing Anchors, but this makes it a 5.9+.

(Tip of the hat to "Lichen or Leave It" at Seneca)This is an adventure climb. The whole climb is covered in large flakey lichen and intermittent shrubs and other growth. Follow discontinuous crack system up and then diagonal left and up, then slightly right. Climb ends a bit west of the roof of Gription. Follow the path of least resistance. If you like your climbs easy and straightforward this is not your climb. The rock is extremely sharp and the lichen makes jamming and finding good holds a bit of a challenge. Not a good climb for the beginning trad leader. There is another crack to the left (shallow left facing corner) that may offer an alternative start.No anchors. Belay second up then walk off to the east back around down to the trail and down and around back to the base of the Self-Potential Wall area.

Mixed route at the far right side of the wall. Climb easy slab to small overlap, place a mid-sized piece and step onto slightly steeper slab, passing 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

A hidden low angle finger crack that has two possible starts. Salt is the left variation that goes at 5.9, and Pepper is the right variation that goes at 5.8. Finish at the bolted anchors for chalk board.

Starting right of Fear and Loathing, stay left of the arête and climb up the left slanting finger crack that takes good gear. When the crack ends step left and up to clip the bolt, from here make a few hard and thin moves on the face to a horizontal, the route then merges with Fear and Loathing, and finishes on the shared bolt anchor. 

A fun crack that zags back and forth across the face. This is just to the left of the Self Potential line. Shares an anchor with Fear and Loathing.

Easy crack/dihedral. This is the rightmost climb on the wall, and will be immediately apparent upon approach. The last move to the bolts is a bit heady for a 5.5, but reach up high on the boulder for a solid hand. Shares an anchor with Fear and Loathing.

This is a short wall with two easy crack systems, and two thin and challenging sport routes that all share an anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Self Potential Wall