fun, easy (relatively speaking, of course, but easy for the grade) well protected. easy to top rope konichiwa from anchors.

Easy Ramp

Sic Fun Ramp

King's Hand Right

Moonglue

Teabag

King's Hand Left

Konichiwa

Unknown Crack

climb the left most side of the semi attached pillars. very easy to top rope by leading easy ramp. super fun. steep, but easier than it looks.

SIC FUN RAMP  AKA:THE ACCELERATED CURVE- Climb the obvious ramp up to the roof. pass the roof (crux) utilizing face holds left. 10+ or C1+. continue up the ramp to bomber anchors just before a large boulder (where the rock quality deteriorates). double 70s (MANDATORY) off. we had some rope left on the ground. not sure if double 60s would make it. crazy good rap off over the mouth of the cave. great route. looks easy, a little deceiving; a bit harder than it looks. pretty clean for a new route with good rock quality. the ramp is detached, so it's also an arch.

King's Hand Right is the same as the King's Hand Left except for the second and third pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.8). Climb straight up the middle of the formation for 150 feet.  There is a pin about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There are some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout.

Pitch 2 (5.10a) Climb up and right past a good pin. There is a bomber nut just above it. Move into the left of the two dihedrals and onto the anchors. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wall Street now.

Pitch 3. Head out left past a few pins and behind the formation.

Pitch 4.  Climb chimney and cracks behind the formation until behind the fingers.

Rappel in two double rope rappells with 60m ropes.

Runout (8), sanding and heady. The most adventure you'll have on Wall Street.

fun route. easy to top rope from Teabag. Moonglue is a book by Daisy Utemorrah. our cams were holding (glueing) large tiles of loose rock in place that fell out when we cleaned our cams. fear not: all cleaned up now.

there are a couple of options. a direct start or an easier start at the base of the ramp. head up and right to two bolts that are just right of a "death block". three bolt anchor. fun moves.

Pitch 1-

Climb up unprotected slab for 150' to an anchor.  There used to be a drilled pin on this pitch but it is no longer there, any pro you get on this pitch is mental pro only. (5.8 R)

Pitch 2-

Traverse left before climbing up and over a crux bulge and past 2 bolts to a belay. (5.9)

Pitch 3-

A few variations on this pitch.

Variation #1- I climbed around the left side of the hand and then climbed a chimney between the hand and the rim wall to the top. Rope drag was horrid.

Variation #2- Climb up between 2 of the rock fingers.

The last 10-15' were first climbed by Peter Gallagher by throwing a rope over the summit.

Descent-

Rappel the route with 2 double rope rappels.  On the rappel marvel at how scared you were and how low angle the climb really is.

Climb up a dirty crack with a bush in the way to a ledge.  Enter the chimney and stem up to where the crack pinches down to offwidth.  Thrash up and top out in a dirty alcove with some loose rocks.  A short scramble up from the alcove, and you will find yourself in the middle of the King's Hand ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in King's Hand