The route starts on to the NE side of the Stool on the SE side of the fin feature.

P1-Climb up the huecos placing gear in the holes.  Clip a bolt and mantel on to a ledge.  Walk the ledge left up a ramp around the tower to a good gear belay on a ledge. The belay takes .75 and 1 size.  150' 5.8.

P2-Climb 5.6 up to the notch between King Arthur's Seat and the Stool.  Climb the bolt ladder up to the summit and a two bolt belay.  5.8 C1+ 60'.

Descent- Double rope rappel down the SE face.

Note- The 2nd and 4th bolts wiggle in there holes.  The rock is soft so if anyone is going to replace them bring something big.

The Stool

Queen's View- Standard Route

Feeding the Rat

Moby Dicks Head

Moby Dick's Tail

King Arthur's Seat

Pitch 1: same first pitch as Moby Dick's Head. Climb 5.8- past 2 bolts to the center saddle without an anchor. 50 feet

move belay to small tree at southern tip of the upper ridge of Moby Dick's Tail

Pitch 2: climb over rotten and loose red rock to a shelf 5.8. 40 feet  (Good luck with anchor here, best to just go to summit)

Pitch 3: climb over a very loose column feature that forms a handcrack on the right and deteriorating sugar on its left edge. Carefully make your way to a lone drilled angle, then easily run it 40ish feet to another large ledge below the 10 foot summit bulge. Climb slightly around right and then to the summit. 5.9+ 75 feet. Good anchor, bring tat.

Rap with 2 ropes to the ground.

This starts on the side away from Tranquility  Tower, the east face. It begins up the left side of a slab.

Pitch 1- Climb up past a pin, then to a large ledge with fixed pins. Don't expect much gear on this pitch,. but it is rather easy.

Pitch 2- begin up pins to an incipient seam. We nailed, and later constructively  scarred two baby angles placement on this pitch. With the use of small offset micronuts this should go clean. Or with a big stick clip this could easily go clean. Exit onto sandy slabs and an anchor on the summit.

Descent- Rappel the route with double 60 meter ropes.

Feeding the Rat is located on the southwest prow of the tower. It is on the edge you seen from the parking lot.

Pitch 0- Scramble up to a large ledge on the shoulder of the tower.

Pitch 1- Climb a pillar-like (very soft) formation 20 feet to an obvious horizontal crack. Traverse out crack left to an uncomfortable natural belay below small crack. 5.7 C1+ 40 feet

Pitch 2- Aid up tiny blue and black alien crack straight off belay. Follow this crack for 30 feet to pins and bolts. Follow bolts and studs with occasional placement to bolted belay on a decent ledge. C2 100 feet

Pitch 3- Aid up more bolts and free climb up  staircases to the summit. Belay of a bush. 5.5 C1 60 feet

Descent- Pray, if you think it'll help. Rappel from small bush off the east side of the tower. Seriously, this bush is scary. We backed up the one half others had used to the other small half. A single bolt would inspire much more confidence. You will need double 60s as these just get you to the ground. Also, pulling the ropes was really hard so get the note well over the edge.

Visible from US 91. The Route for the Head is located begins on the NW side of the land form . The Tail was climbed in 1990's by John Middendorf and party at .5.9 A2 3 Pitches...…..Moby Dicks Head>1)Climb to the friction slab between the tail and the head two friends for pro. 5.8 2) To the right easy to a group of holes #3/4/6 friends 5.6 A0 .. will go free .  Rap the route.

Pitch 1: Climb up past three bolts to an easy chimney. Belay on above the chimney. 110' 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb past 2 more bolts (crux), pass a hueco that takes a #3 camalot, and belay on a nice ledge. There is one built and a stuck red cam connected by some slings 70' 5.9-.

Walk up the ridge past the rappel anchor, which consists of a bolt and wired bolt with multiple slings and one ring. "Natural boullard" anchor is shaved down.

Pitch 3: Continue to the summit, passing a pin drilled pin, and some sandy rock. Summit anchor consisted of a stopper and a slung horn. 50'(from the bollard) 5.7.

We linked pitches 1 and 2 with little drag.

Descent: Do one long rappel down the east face off the natural bollard.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Joe Wilson Canyon