Climb the first pitch of "Salathe" to where it is possible to movr right and up a corner to the terrace.

Rappel 150'.

Pterodactyl Terrace, Left

Dust in the Wind

Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael

Moby Dick Center

Thread of Life

Anxiety with a view

The Mountains are Calling

Reeds Leads

Salathe (pitch 1)

Pine Line

Moby Dick, Left

Franken pine

Ahab

Pine stein

Seedy Leads

Pterodactyl Terrace, Right

For the El Cap base routes, the first pitch of the Salathe provides a superb pitch that is technical, well protected and one of the best lines at the base. Locate the start by finding the line that usually is waiting for this one, near the point on the approach trail where you head left to get to Moby Dick.  The start is 5.6 climbing up a groove / crack that if you can avoid placing gear in will minimize rope drag further up.  Head toward a pair of thin cracks that wander up the vertical face and follow this to an obvious anchor.  Outstanding climbing and spectacular position. Of course you can continue up for another 10 pitches for Freeblast, or finish the entire Salathe if you are feeling spunky.

Goes up clean corners through a tree.  After tree move out left 5.9 on good edges to bolted anchor. Route goes up three more pitches at 10a.  Rappel with 2 ropes.

Don Reid's guide calls this route Masquerade, but when Charle Cole and I did the first ascent, we named it Call Me Ishmael, picking up the Moby Dick theme.

The first pitch works up a thin crack (we put in a piton on the first ascent) to some bolts.   The crux is a set of very indistinct moves over a bulge to gain some more moderate face climbing to a belay.  The second pitch move up right and then arches left on bullet proof edges (continuous but not as hard as the crux) to a belay just right and above the top of the Moby Dick pillar.

When Charles Cole and I did the first ascent, we planned to come back and push the route higher.  But I had to go back to the East Coast for grad school, and we never came back in good enough shape to do the extreme face climbing necessary.  There remains potential for further development.

The route is rated as an R.  As I recall, there are some severe moves fairly far above the bolts on the second pitch.  On the first ascent I ran out of gas in the lead and could not let go to pound a bolt.  I was frozen, and Charles yanked me off with a vigorous pull of the rope -- 40 feet, but clean.  I shook it off and went back up and pushed above my high spot to a stance and put in the final bolt before the run to the belay.  But don't be scared off.   The lower crux is well protected, and while the route will test any leader's mental control, it is basically a clean line that is not dangerous.  The real question is whether the route is 5.11d.  Let's just say that Charles and I were feeling pretty good in 1988.

While it starts with a powerful, thin and technical finger crack, most of your time will be spent with the widening fist crack above.  For those with small hands, the upper section will be off-width, but for those with larger hands, enjoy!  The crux is right off the ground and pro is thin early on.  Watch you ankles falling right off the ground:  the base is littered with rocks.

Begin by climbing up to a flaring corner crack which is capped by a small roof/bulge protected by a pin. Continue up past several bolts with intermittent gear to a long slabby finish. Bolts need replaced.

Good little slab to TR and practice on for harder Yosemite routes. There is one or two small spots where you could potentially place a small nut or cam but would end up being a pretty exciting lead. Belay off 2 bolt anchor for Pine Line by climbing Pine Line to access.

Begins approximately 50ft. left of Moby Dick, and approx. 20ft left of a large squeeze chimney (Moby Dick Left). Starts up a small corner system which ends, step right and climb up a thin corner with 3 bolts. This is a more direct start for the Muir Wall.

This climb follows the obvious left-facing ramp/corner between Ahab and the first pitch of Salathe. Start in a crack system slightly to the right and then move left into the corner about 40ft up. Somewhat awkward climbing leads to a small ledge with an old 1/4" bolt on it. Above this you have to transfer from a good finger crack on the left over to a shallow groove on the right. Then another traverse out onto the face is made to gain a bolted anchor out right.

Bring pro to 2" but it mostly takes finger size stuff.

Rap with 2 ropes. The bolts are good.

Begin on a huge platform directly beneath the Nose. Excellent thin 5.7 fingercrack to a ledge with a belay tree and magnificent view. A wonderful Yosemite first lead. Descent: Rappel from a 2-bolt anchor with rings, or scramble down right side.

Climb a flared chimney for two pitches to the dreamy ledge on top of Moby Dick.

Rappel 160'.

A really round about way to the pine line bolts but it adds a bit of fun. Really sketchy top rope as you climb past the anchor or equally sketchy trad with risk of a ground fall at one point but overall solid. The crux comes near the top as you traverse over some glass to get back over to the pine line bolts. You have to put two physically easy moves onto two mentally difficult foot holds.

Ahab is a wide testpiece for the aspiring wide specialist.  Begin in a corner just to the right of Moby Dick.  After a short 20ft scramble you enter the meat of the climb, a chimney that narrows and squeezes all but the most petite out to the edge.  Exit out top of the chimney and enter a flaring handcrack.  Continue up another slot and then to the anchors.

Climb directly after pine line leading to the base of the nose route. Approximately 35’ with 2-3 bolts and amazing placement for trad gear. Fun lieback crack leading to the start of the nose but an amazing route for your first climb on El Capitan. Good protection, small lieback finger crack crux.

About 50ft to the left of the start of Salathe is a sort of obvious line up the slab with good "steps" and a couple bolts. Getting past the second bolt is sort of tricky, then you traverse left into a crack system. The crack continues through a flare before it becomes just a seam. Good edges appear out right just in time and face climbing takes you past one more bolt to a small left-facing corner/overlap. Continue up and left to a bolted anchor. Rappel with 2 ropes.

This is easily toproped after climbing Reed's Leads. It's probably a bit of a spicy lead, but it looked like it was all there. The lead bolts are starting to show their age a bit. The anchor bolts are good.

This is worth toproping after climbing the left side route, or probably a pretty bold lead. It starts a short ways left of Pine Line. Follow a crack up to a roof and then make a difficult traverse left. On TR it's also possible to make a more direct start by climbing face (10d) up and left to a thin crack which joins the regular line.

A ways up the crack system is interrupted by a bulge. The 11b crux is pulling over that and then stepping right into another crack system. Easier climbing leads up the right side of the terrace.

Rappel from the bolted anchor (good bolts). One 70m easily makes it. A 60m might work too but will be close.

Description

Protection

Routes in Moby Dick and Pterodactyl Terrace