Share start and first 2 bolts with Wizard of Loneliness and then follow bolt line straight up through roof (crux) to short fist sized crack.  2 Bolt anchor.  Please leave biners. 

  New route, could still have loose holds. 

Another classic novel by John Nichols(American_writer)

Last  Beautiful Days of Autumn

On the Mesa

Conjugal Bliss

Stimulus Package

Wizard of Loneliness

The Sterile Cuckoo

TR, Project

Milagro Beanfield War

A Ghost in the Music

Treadwell

Nirvana Blues

Writing Down the Bones

Obamanos!

The slab at the start is the crux. Great climbing above on good solid basalt.  

The trail descends and several longer climbs (70 to 90 ft) line this section

 

The crux is the crackless corner.   Great route on iron hard basalt.

Continouos sequences to rest mid route then jugs to chains.

Cool climbing up into a weird crux sequence.

Changing blank corners, complex movement.

Ramifications.  Caution loose rock below and through roof.  Needs cleaning.

Amazing climbing up to and over a six foot overhang. Some loose holds may persist. The climbing above the overhang is excellent. Stick clip the first bolt and then do hard moves up the thin seam. The crux is moving right from the layback to below the roof. 

  Maybe the longest and therefore one of the best route at the crag.

Obvious dark, blocky trad line on Sterile Cuckoo face.

Start on first two bolts of Nirvana Blues and move right to thin face and then arête.  Nice rest below final bolt on buldge.  Turn roof on large reachy holds to 2 ring anchor at ledge.

A pumpy crux finish. Great climbing on solid basalt.

Dark featured corner at the left-most area on the crag (Downriver/South end). Crux at start just left of large beautiful fragrant sage bush (cough). I think this is a good first sport lead.   The hardest move is right off the ground.

Second Route on the lower tier.  Bouldery start up to shallow crack leads to technical crux.  Continue the pump on pockets to the chains.  "Yes we can!" 

First set of climbs of the main wall. #1Bones then Stimulus Package then #2 Obamanos.  Rest are in order.

Entrance to Lower Tier is from the south down Black Mamba wash. The first short wall has a  nice concentration of sport and sport/trad routes. The first route is  a  5.7 warm up. If you wish to toprope, it is possible to traverse to set up top ropes or drop in from boulders above.  Lower level has long wall with series of nice, varied climbs

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (L1) John Nichol's Wall