While a hassle to access, [Redacted] is a worthy route for those looking for something different. This short wandering line consists of large interesting holds separated by long moves. While there is a definite crux move, the difficultly is fairly sustained.

[Redacted]

Direct Lions Line

Turkey Trot

Tongue Lashing

Coroner's Inquest

Male Menopause

Chicken Co-op

Montse, Donde Esta,'91

Lion's Line

Old Man

Rooting for the Lions

Cloud Nine

A short, sustained dihedral that requires little strength but lots of technique.

This direct start adds about 30 feet of 12- bolted face to this seldom climbed classic. This allows climbers to avoid placing the few pieces of gear needed on the original start which is the same thin crack start to Rooting for the Lions. Harder than the original start there are a couple of options through the crux section of the addition.

Steep face climbing that has good protection and and interesting feature in the middle.

A direct finish variation of Stuttering In Tongues, Tongue Lashing ascends a prominent black streak. 

  Despite being short this visually pleasing line is full value with an interesting base, solid gear, an awesome crux and bomber jams.

The start of Male Menopause is located 20 feet or so to the left of Old Man.  Start up a thin seam/crack.  Move right through steeper rock.  Move left onto ledges and climb the hand crack in the headwall.  If the handcrack were longer this route would be classic.  Provacative climbing for the grade with adequate, although not always abundant, gear.

Fun climbing to about the 4th bolt then it gets hard and tenuous which is fun in a way but not as fun as the lower section.

Face to crack then more face on steep plated face make it a fun endurance fest.  This is old school sport climbing where you could fall more than ten feet so there is a mental element to it.

This route ascends the huge, prominent left-facing corner near the south end of South Fin. 

  Start up the clean dihedral on thin fingers until you can get a stance for pro.  Continue up through broken blocks, staying generally in the corner, until you come right under the large roof near the top.   

  While there are a couple of finishes, the most common is to move right under roof and up around corner.  Continue up 15 feet to anchors. 

  While easily protected, this route is long and quite sustained, save for a couple good rests. It is also extremely fun! Some of the best crack moves around. 

  To descend, move back about ten feet to chains for Male Menopause, and rap down west face of South Fin back to start.

Crack with fixed or drilled pin and steep face.  Widely spaced bolts with a good run at the top make it pretty exciting to lead.

South Fin has lots of quality rock routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12+. With trad, sport, and mixed climbs there is something for everyone, and rock quality is very good. It is also very accessible from the highway, making it a popular destination, along with neighboring North Fin. 

  There are climbs on both sides of the fin, allowing for sun or shade as desired.  For climbs on the east face, approach as described below, and continue on around the south end of the fin. 

  A high concentration of two and three-star climbs make this an especially desirable destination.   

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Fin