From the first belay on Pony Express, continue straight up for 20 feet in an easy corner, then claw your way up the steep, blank wall, clipping two initial bolts, then 4 or so more. The moves above the 2nd bolt to the rap station are exposed and exciting.

Espresso

Crack Face

Only the Young Die Brave

The Man Who Fell to Earth

Hyperspace

Grand Delusion

Happy Face

Mackerel Sky

West Chimney

Cry Mary

Fat Merchant Crack

Northern Lights

Under the Spreading Atrophy

Back in Black

Sugar Daddy

Slippy Liam

Pan Dulce

The Podium

Ghost in the Machine

Ziploc

Hanging by a Thread

Pony Express

TM's Deviation

Twist and Shout

Pony Express is a great way to start the day.

The first pitch (5.8) is worthy of 3 stars, a lieback flake for a ways then it turns into a left-facing open book.

The second pitch only deserves 1 star... continue up from the belay on easy climbing for ~20 feet then use a wide crack in the gully to pull a bulge (5.9).  After the crux its 3rd class to the top.

Finding Pony Express is quite simple too.  It starts in the middle of a clean face on a very obvious flake - the only one in the vicinity.

A nice thin sustained lieback dihedral with tons of opportunities for gear makes this a good easily accessible route for both the novice and more experienced climber looking for a route without a big grade or committing climbing above gear.

Start up a thin finger crack lieback until the corner peters out and you can reach (not far) to the right and clip a bolt which protects a few moves that get you out of the corner and onto the face. Follow the bolts of Happy Face to the anchors.

Shares the start with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'.  Mantle up to a horizontal ledge on the right-most side of the face then climb the left side of the sharp arete.  Very few feet provide the difficulty on this one.

This climb is located about 20 feet uphill from Pony Express and is often shaded by a few large pine trees.

The Man Who Fell to Earth shares its beginning with 'Only the Young Die Brave' at a very narrow crack that widens to wide fists above a shelf.  Upon mantling a small ledge, clip the first bolt and traverse up-and-left (crux) across the face to a series of huge knobs (still difficult).  Follow these up to a small roof, pull it then go to the anchors.I should mention that I did NOT see separate anchors for this climb, and instead moved right to anchors shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'

There is also a run-out 5.11c variation that moves up to the third bolt from the left.

If we had 5 stars in our rating system this would have received 4 from me.  I thought it was a lot of fun.

Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs.

Grand Delusion is a ridiculously thin and painful crack to a brutally sustained and sequential lieback. To finish the pitch, you make a sustained 5.10d traverse along a horizontal crack to a mantle just before the anchors.

This route starts up the arete just left of Hyperspace.  thin crack + arete to begin.  Clip first bolt, a couple more arete moves, then transfer onto face and continue up to bolted anchor.

First .10c crux is directly above first bolt.  Second crux is right before the anchor.

Traverse out of the West Chimney at about 40 feet and pull onto the wall immediately to the right (Pull out at a point when the first bolt is overhead). From there the route goes straight up, crosses Pan Dulce and continues up a short bulge and steep headwall to an anchor. Pitch 2 ascends a lower angle, but really nice pretty easy face to another headwall with big knobs spaced well apart, then onto the arête to another anchor. It can be lead in one 120 foot pitch and with a 70 meter rope and a short scramble can be TRd with a 70m, but it went up as a 2 pitch route. It essentially is the face to the right of West chimney.

A failed attempt to reach the South Summit. The first ascentionists executed a shoulder stand to bypass the dirty 5.8 section on the second pitch.

The start of the route is obvious. Head up the 5.5 chimney with a crack on the left side for pro. At the top of the chimney, climb spooky flaky rock to the left to surpass the chimney's roof.

A second dirty pitch continues to the top at 5.8 or you can climb "T.M.'s Deviation."

A high first bolt past hard 5.10+ climbing starts the route off. Then 5.12 climbing past a few more bolts leads to a thin hard to protect crack that is no less than solid 5.10d. This route is rarely lead.

"Sugarloaf's wide crack testpiece". Start in the wide chimney and burrow yourself in deep. After about 50 ft the crack narrows to a tight squeeze where you'll find a hideing piton in a horizontal crack deep inside the chimney. After clipping the piton, you'll have to drop down a few feet to be able to squeeze your way out of the crack. This is where the struggle begins. You can protect this section if you have 12" gear or you'll have to work your way up another 20 ft until you can get a #6 to stick. Keep in mind, you'll be 20 ft up and 30 ft out from that manky looking piton before you can get a solid piece of gear in. Once the squeeze chimney narrows to the point where it forces you out, despirate "thank God" foot and hand holds begin to appear and you can now plug in some much welcome gear. Now that the huff is over, make your way up an ever narrowing crack (w/ good pro) to the belay or continue to a short roof where you'll find a set of bolted anchors waiting on top...(60m rope only). The next pitch climbs some slightly runout face up a (sorta) chimney (5.6ish) and meets up in the south notch with Hardings Chimney. Follow that to the top. Much harder than Self Abuse or Midterm and the Meat Grinder in the Valley.

Northern Lights is a seldom climbed short but very steep finger crack in an arching right facing corner. Steep and sustained. Though the gear is mostly small, it’s solid and abundant.

This is a thin granite face route that starts off a block.  First move is an in your face mantle and then it's thin to win from there. Wear your edging shoes and move up past 5 bolts before traversing right when it blanks out and finish via Pony Express.

This climb has gotten a bolt upgrade sometime in 2007, big thanks to whoever did it (John Robinson?) for removing the old manky leepers and putting in quality hardwear without damaging the stone.

Because it finishes on the same bolt anchor atop Pony Express, this is an excellent toprope after leading that climb.

It's good climbing, and would get more stars if it was completely independent...

Thin perplexing climbing to an a definite and distinct crux. The difficulties are short but not to be underestimated. After the crux, the route changes character and becomes a much easier (5.9), but much bolder route with good space between the bolts.

Start up the Fat Merchant Crack and traverse out Right to a bolt under the obvious tooth/horn. Climb up the horn and onto the face. Sustained and thin face climbing above eventually leads to the anchors. There is a second pitch that is bolted but it's painfully thin and rarely lead.

Thin techy feet that is one of the very few honest temperature dependent routes. Thin and difficult moves eventually lead to very thin and thought provoking climbing between bolts. Safe but provides a proper puckering.

Start up the West Chimney and traverse out to the right past a bolt to a large long ledge system that splits through the middle of the West Face. Belay at the bolts located almost directly above the route "Grand Delusion". Pitch 2 climbs up a blunt arête past four bolts on knobs and divots to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3 climbs up a low angle crack past a pin to a bulge. Climb over the bulge on knobs through a short runnout to a bolt. Then climb 5.7r to a low angle area and set up a belay in the cracks below a headwall. Pitch 4 climbs the headwall past several bolts on sustained .10b face to a bolted anchor. After the last pitch, traverse to the right to the tunnel through at the top of Hardings Chimney and Scheister.

The podium is a unique route that is a great introduction to easy offwidth and bold chimney climbing. Climb up a short but easy offwidth to a low angle chimhey. Climb up into the chimney over chockstones to the flat floor of a wide chimney overhead. Belay by sitting down. No need to build an anchor. The second pitch is a 40ft unprotected chimney directly below a large chockstone. Climb up to the chockstone which accepts gear to protect the top out. Climb over the chockstone and up a low angle face to a sling belay around a tree. Rappel off the tree with a 60m rope to the anchors of The Man Who Fell To Earth/Only The Young Die Brave. Make a second rappel to the ground or scramble/downclimb the left side of the formation past Back In Black.

Start up a left angling crack near the south face and gain the arete. Steep well protected climbing leads to a short traverse right to the anchors. Pitch two starts out strong but quickly mellows out on holes and pockets up a steep face to slab. Pitch three climbs a steep corner with splitter cracks, over a bulge and up some wondering runnout face with big holds. The last pitch starts out strong and stays physical with little rests until you make a long traverse out left. Double rope technique is suggested to minimize rope drag. Gain the arete and some steep physical technical moves. Pull over a bulge and up easier face to the top.

Starts at the 1st belay for Bolee Gold. Traverses left for the entire pitch following the thin horizontal crack. Gear to Camalot #1, 2 pins and 2 bolts. Crux is crossing Fat Merchants crack ans thin face beyond to reach the anchor. Envisioned that a second pitch would be added that would continue left along crack and finish on the last 25 feet of Grand Delusion

No known second ascent?

step out onto the face. Make a short, thin and powerful traverse right to a decent rest. Now climb up and slightly back left through thin holds, steep knobs and questionable sequences. The route ends with fun climbing on good knobs and edges to the bolted anchor.

This is either a second pitch to West Chimney or Pony Express.  Starts 40' directly south (downhill) of the top of p1 of Pony Express.

Belay in a shady alcove,  start up a slick face squeeze with a finger crack on the wall that takes good pro from #2 camalot to finger sizes.  Pull out into handcrack and face on good knobs.  Turns to lower angle wide fist, with good feet on the face.

Then get down to business as you pull into a squeeze.  A helmet will hose you here.  There is a good horizontal rail that you can get gear in, which will help keep the rope running outside the crack.  My partner somehow got a #4 camalot deep in the crack.  I could barely retrieve it with my nut tool.

With your feet on that good rail, commit to the bombay squeeze.  My partner led this right side in, I followed left side in.  squirm till you hit some thank god rails.

A couple more easier chimney moves lead to pulling over, and easy slab to the top.

This starts to the right of "Hyperspace". Climb to the top of a pedestal, then up face past two bolts up to a right facing corner and to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face