Start from a cool hangout ledge. Climb a corner for about 15 feet to ledge below a roof. Pull around roof on good hands with cool features on the right. A #4 Camalot protects the start of the traverse left nicely. Bust left on cool moves with tricky foot work in a splitter crack to an alcove just below another roof. Climb tight hands through the roof and above to a short section of wide. Finish with cool face holds to the anchor.

The Coronation

Crescent Crack

The Seemster

Dazed and Confused

Swim Simulator

Jive Turkey

Deliverance

McComb Crack

Dazed and Confused is located on the backside of a large pillar and faces up river. Climb a splitter that splits wall near a chimney in a corner (5.9). Climb a short off-width until it joins three separate hand-sized splitters (5.10+). A two bolt anchor is located in small alcove at 130' or so.

Climb a left-facing corner (5.10) towards the seem crack of "

Swim Simulator

", but then stay in this obvious line of weakness to the top. This corner becomes an amazing, crescent, arching flake towards the top with tight hand jams and foot holds around (5.10+).

Climb face holds up and right towards obvious splitter finger cracks. Surmount small roof before following thin crack as it arches up and right (5.10). You switch cracks high up before anchor.

Climb a short corner ( same as Crescent Crack), join a splitter tips crack, follow it as it arches right (5.11d), then join an awesome tight hands splitter (5.10+) for 60'. Find some rests and feet up high!

Climb tricky sidepulls into short, right-facing corner before traversing right beneath small ledge (5.11 with good gear); then follow a hand crack into a double roof. One #5 Camalot protects cool OW move through roof (5.10) and then an awesome long hand crack leads to "30 Something Ledge" (5.10).

Climb a short corner to horizontal cracks, good gear placements (5.9). Gain a small ledge left of the start, and then head up blunt arete left of ledge past 3 bolts before a splitter crack emerges (5.11c). Follow splitter - mostly 1" baggie finger jams with feet. It tightens at the top, and a two bolt anchor is visible.

Our truck got stuck on the way home from this one...almost 10 miles from Dove Creek. We lucky caught a ride and a tow from some true locals, and the name for our new route become clear that night.

Climb an obvious splitter hand and fist crack through small bulge, and then follow it up and left into a chimney (5.10+). This is a really fun warm-up for the harder and longer routes in the zone. Look for obvious red steak coming from the traversing section of the fist crack near the anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in H. Ten Mile Crag