Ascend ledges 15ft to the tree and climb the obvious weakness in the middle of a steep face. Scarce pro on the bottom, decent small pro just before the crux. Sizeable runout through the crux. Little tricky but fun moves overall. 

  Not sure what the name is and whether this has been led or TR'd before or by who. Any info would be appreciated!

Homo Erectus

The Heel

Stuck Knee

Coup de Gras

Psamead Ghostdance

Double Jeopardy

Fois Gros

Impervious Horror

Unnamed 5.7

Illusion Chimney

Big Toe Left

Barn Dance

Mr. Lucky

Modern Life is Rubbish

Grand Illusion

Big Toe

Big Toe Right

Icarus

It is of a sustained 5.9 nature of climbing.  Pulling over the little ledge near the top is maybe the most physical move.  Resisting stemming over to the left hand wall is the mental crux.  The climbing is a bit harder if you don't stem over and keep both feet on the right wall.  Nice finger locks in the crack section at 3/4 height  below the little ledge with the angular shaped block sitting on it.  The first 30 feet has some very mildy loose flakes and somewhat fragile rock but it is for the most part OK.  This climb is "named" due to the similar nature of the rock and the rock climbing to another well know DL classic albiet quite a bit easier.

Climb the northeast corner of the tall blunt buttress. Is it called The Heel because it is located behind the Big Toe or because, as mentioned in Swartling, the climb involves an interesting heel hook?

Start in the north inside corner of the recessed section, climb 15 feet to the first ledge. Then up a crack to the base of a narrow chimney. Climb Chimney (crux) to the ledge above. Pull up over the overhanging ledge and finish in 12 foot inside corner

This was a old aid line, called Bivouac Ledge 5.7 A1, starts about 10ft left of the start of SOGC, climb up to ledge with boulder below overhang, pass overhang and move right to crack to Bivouac Ledge, then work your way to the top,

Double Jeopardy is just south of the Great Chimney and is somewhat easily located.  Look for the most inviting dihedral amongst about 4-5 dihedrals on this wall.  About 25 feet up there is a large tree growing from a ledge.  Start out on easier terrain.  Once you reach the tree the angle steepens.  The first real diffuculty occurs below a hanging chimney.  Go left of the chimney and surmount a large ledge with a dead fallen tree trunk on it.  Pass the trunk and find the crux, a steep face which can be a bit of a puzzle to figure out.  If leading, be sure to use your slings wisely to avoid rope drag.

Climb the inside corner between Mr. Lucky and Coup de Gras. Dirty climbing on the lower inside corner leads to a large ledge and cleaner inside corner climbing above the ledge.

This route ascends finger ripping blades all the way up.  First move slaps the corner, and then no rest till a good shake prepares for (what else?) blades to the finish. A variation at 11a goes up the arete using a few blades to the right and the punky holes and detached flakes on the corner.

Climb cracks in shallow left facing inside corner to small roof. Surmount roof and finish on the overgrown top of the pedestal.

 This is #44 in Swartling/Mayer and is listed simply as "Unnamed 5.7" in Knower.

Climb the chimney on North side of the pointy nose. Climb ended 20 feet early due to the vegetation.

The left line of 2 lines that ascend the North (or NE) face of Big Toe, just right of the Big Toe route on the corner.

 This is a named route in Knower's book and is unnamed #27 in Swartling/Mayer.

From pine tree climb up thin crimps on face to the break.  From break fire the crux sequence to jugs up and right.  Top-out straight up.

Start up the 10- slab to the left of Homo Erectus.  Cruise to the base and up the right side of the wall, through horizontals at the bottom and in middle of the overhanging wall above.  Long reaches, a key hand slot, and a  lucky catch gets you to a finishing mantle, followed by a couple of satisfying 5.8 moves in the upper short dihedral to the top.

The crux is an overhanging crack that climbs up into a notch chimney, a   nice hand crack leads to big jugs to get climber into the notch above at a reasonable grade.  The small chimney has a hand crack at the back that leads up and climber escapes to ledge on the right and surmounts a final nifty but short corner.

In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.   This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).   The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too.  Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove.  Well protected and classic stiff 5.9.  The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via locks and a throw to sharp jugs (all after hang'n out below it and placing gear).  If you fall - no problem- it is pure air.

Start behind cobra head-shaped tower and climb the corner to large platform.

 This is a named route in Swartling and Mayer. Not listed in Knower's book.

The right line of 2 lines that ascend the North (or NE) face of Big Toe, just right of the Big Toe route on the corner and left of the obvious 5.2 chimney.

 This is a named route in Knower's book and is unnamed #28 in Swartling/Mayer.

A complicated boulder problem, with lots of parts.

Climbs in between Prospect Point Pinnacle and Great Chimney, along the upper wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 03: Big Toe to Great Chimney