Climb the obvious seam/finger crack on the east side of the Seurat Boulder. Start more or less standing and work up the crack on terrible foot smears and sidepulls to where the crack makes a dogleg and opens up. If you can climb cracks, this could feel pretty easy but it can be very frustrating.

Seurat

Broken Arrow Right (FKA Anorexic Gymnast)

Cherry Top Rip (mame unknown AKA Grey Face Moderate)

Jasper

The Champagne Room

Dilithium Crystal

Chrome

All Dogs Go To Evans

Silverback

Rawhide

Hollow Deception

Child Stars

The Diving Board

Useless Tools

Broken Arrow Left

Chocolate Croissant

Broken Arrow Dyno

Champagne Right

Blackie

Champagne Left

Begin from a sit start shared with

Champagne Left

. Bump up and traverse right across perfect sloping rails to nice edges and then the top. Although the opening move out of the sds is slightly awkward, the quality of the rock is absolutely perfect and the movement across the face is outstanding.

NOTE: Although this problem and what I've called

Champagne Left

were never actually named by the early developers, the boulder was apparently coined the Champagne Block, and I've given these problems the namesake moniker until further notice. If Ben, Jason, David, Jeremy, Cam or Jamie read this, feel free to chime in.

Find the obvious head-high holds about 10 feet left of

Seurat

, pull on, slide left a bit and make a long move up and left to a left hand gaston at the bottom of a seam while keeping your feet engaged. A couple of different finishing sequences will get you to the juggy lip. Although the first ascensionist suggested the name "Anorexic Gymnast" many years ago, it appears Ben changed his mind for publication of Jamie Emerson's guidebook.

For those who love big hard dynos, it is possible to dyno from the starting holds all the way (~7 feet) to the lip.

This innocuous-looking problem sits like a Siren above the trail to the Dali, luring unsuspecting pad-people towards its large, chalk-caked holds.  This looks like a good warmup., why is there chalk on that hold?  Famous last words before the extended bout commences.

Begin with a sit-down-start on the two lowest of three diagonal holds, above the right end of the short cave.  Shuffle diagonally up and left to the obvious backwards-C-shaped jug.  Hit the sloper out right, set your feet, and drive-by huck for the high hold, which is good if you hit it right.  Kill the swing and top out easily.

Begin from a sit start and ascend the pink quartzite band to the top using sharp grips, a sloper or two and a surprisingly tricky sequence based on the appearance of the problem.

Begin on holds in the roof at or above your head, including a RH undercling. Climb out the right side of the overhang, getting a pinch with your LH at the lip and a RH crimp on the face, then go again with your RH to the lip and topout.

Begin matched on a crystal edge, do a powerful move to start and continue to the top and pull over. Honestly, it's a low quality problem, but it's something to try if you're stuck in the area with nothing to do.

Chrome ascends the right-trending rising arete from a sit start at a low crack that sports a cruxy sequence to get things started. Ride slopers the rest of the way, grab the apex and pull over.

While Chrome is a really nice problem with a hard sequence into an arguably 4-star V10, I can't imagine anyone asserting that Chrome is a 4-star problem on par with No More Greener Grasses. As such, I have given it 3 stars.

Start low down all the way down to the right, possibly sitting. Climb left along and out the overhang, trending along the steep arete. In the middle of the problem thin crimps in a rising seam also come into play with the slopey lip. Continue to the apex of the boulder, at the top of a little mini arete, and topout there. If you topout before this, you have not done the full problem.

A great problem, but alas it is a lip traverse with a couple of opportunities to exit early.

Silverback ascends the right-trending rising arete from a stand start just right of a low crack (which is where Seth Allred's

Chrome

starts). Begin matched on high slopers and ride slopers up the arete until you can grab the apex and pull over. Originally V11, this problem is a consensus V10 that can feel easier when conditions are perfect.

Although I've given this problem 4 stars, I sympathize with the feeling that CLASSIC problems are generally not lip traverses. This is one of the rare exceptions to that rule.

Start low down on the right, possibly sitting, in the same spot as All Dogs Go to Evans. Climb left along and out the overhang, trending along the steep arete as per ADGTE for about 10-12 feet. At this point, instead of continuing left with ADGTE, perform a burly mantel up onto the face (crux), which will require some effort and proud manteling skills. Once established on the face, dance up the 80 degree slab on thin imperfections for 15+ feet to the top.

I've given this two stars but its honestly a little better than that. You get to do the first ~8 moves or so with ADGTE (great), one of the burliest mantels at Evans onto a slab (powerful puzzle-solving) and a slightly sketchy slabtacular run to the finish.

Today's Hollow Deception is quite different than the original Hollow Deception, as the namesake "hollow" and sharp crimp finally broke for good in 2008.  Instead of a face climb with a long reach/toss from the "hollow" hold, the problem now more or less is as an arete climb with long reaches.  Begin from a crouching start on the left side of the overhanging face and ascend the left arete/face.

This problem used to have a ~V9 sit start beginning on the large flake down and to the left, but I'm not sure it's been done like that since the namesake hold broke. Let me know if you have info regarding this issue.

From a sds under the STEEP roof, begin with sidepulls below the obvious sloper, pull on, get the sloper with your left hand and bump your right hand to a higher undercling. Make a long span to the lip with all kinds of tension and tricky footwork, match the lip, slide left and go for a good edge, holding the swing. Roll over the lip and dance up the slab to the top.

The Diving Board is a nice gimmick problem that offers a fun diversion for those looking for some cheap entertainment in the area.

Scramble up the short slab, latch the top of the diving board and traverse out to the lip, then mantle over the top.

Useless Tools begins from a sit start that ups the ante for the moderate problem

Broken Arrow

. Begin from a sds on high sloping crimps, pull your butt off the ground and campus up to a left hand edge. Do not cheat by using a dynamic butt start. Now that the real difficulties are over, enjoy surfing right across really good holds and finish as for

Broken Arrow

.

Since it's really an awkward 1-move wonder into a really nice V3, I've given it only 1 star. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with playing on this problem, it's just "OK" as far as V9s go.

Find jugs in the cave about 20 feet left of

Seurat

, move up and right into the seam, figure out how to get your left hand in the right place and make a move for the juggy lip and easy finish. This shares into the same finish with

Broken Arrow Right

.

This problem looks like it should be V0 ... it's NOT.  From right on the trail, ascend the northwest arete from a stand start on a left hand crimp and an obvious right hand sidepull crimp.  Every move can spit you off and this problem is surprisingly devious and frustrating, but this is a perfect problem if you're in at Area A by yourself without a slew of pads.  Over the past few years, this problem has exfoliated quite a bit, inevitably making it a tad harder than it once was.

A slightly lower crimp serves as an alternative starting point for a low quality sit-start that adds little difficulty.

This is a sweet, 6 foot dyno on the left side of the Seurat Boulder. Start on the jugs, as for

Broken Arrow

, and then huck straight for the lip. High feet make the problem feel a bit awkward at first, but it's worth it.

Simply put, Blackie is the direct start to what is now known as

Broken Arrow

. Begin low on bad pinches down and right from Broken Arrow's obvious starting holds.

Begin from a sit start shared with

Champagne Right

in the middle of the block on obvious sloping edges.  Bump to higher sloping edges and continue STRAIGHT up the face, potentially via a long dynamic move to a good hold higher up. Although the opening move out of the sds is slightly awkward, the quality of the rock is absolutely perfect and the problem stays with you until the end.

NOTE: Although this problem and what I've called

Champagne Right

were never actually named by the early developers, the boulder was apparently coined the Champagne Block and I've given these problems the namesake moniker until further notice. If Ben, Jason, David, Jeremy, Cam or Jamie read this, feel free to chime in.

Description

Protection

Routes in Seurat Area