Route begins just to the left of Grape Nuts in a water groove with a hands/fingers crack. Finishes at the summit, though it is possible to rappel Tecate Crunch (2x30m) after the 2nd pitch.

P1, 100', 5.7. Climb a hand/finger crack up a water groove. Follow the crack up the right side of the groove until forced back into the groove at a bush. Belay on ledge up and left. Poor rock in the belay, which takes hand and finger gear.

P2, 170', 5.7. Follow a easy groove up and left until a steep section pushes you right onto a slabby corner. A slight downward traverse leads to a low angle corner with a wide crack which is followed to the top. Belay in boulders to the left of the saddle. The optional rappel is found up and right of the saddle.

P3, 140' 5.5. Move the belay 50' left. Several options exist to leave the ledge here. Follow furrows, staying left of the main gulley, until reaching a bushy ledge, continue 30' or so up blocks to an awesome sandy alcove.

P4, 100' 5.6 or 5.8r/x. Move the belay 120' left on a class 2 ledge to the base of a beautiful chimney. Lewis' guide suggests climbing up via the Chimney. The face on the right side of the chimney provides the best stone and movement on the route, but no protection. Both options end in face climbing on the right side of the gully on surprisingly good rock.

3rd class ledges on the right side of the formation lead to the descent (and option to go to the summit).

Deadline

The Tube

Grape Nuts

Tecate Crunch

Old school burl, finesse,or a combination of both.  Chicken wings and heel/toe moves with a couple of jugs (horizontal cracks inside the groove), some judicious lieback moves, and some smearing.  This route packs a punch for the grade and is really fun if you're into that sort of thing.  There are four bolts and the first bolt is a bit high.  It looks like the original first bolt is missing or the route has been retrobolted.

This two-pitch climb starts left of a right facing corner near the center of the tower. Climb face past bolts, to a crack, to a belay. Face climb past horizontal cracks. Rappel 200' or walk off right.

A great attractive line but as the name implies there is some questionable rock on this route, as with most of the routes in this area.  But it does seem to be cleaning up and deserves more than the one star found in the Lewis guide. The first pitch has great climbing and if not for a bit of hollow loosness here and there would be 3 stars.  I found the crux was getting to the kinda high first bolt. Getting to the scond bolt was easy but a little run considering the rock but nothing broke on me.  The third bolt came rather soon considering the previous 2. I climbed past it then clipped below my waste. A couple more bolts and fun climbing get you 2 a nice 2 bolt chain anchor. I can't speak for the second pitch,  my partner wanted to continue on Grape Nuts to the left, but it looked cool above the anchor. Looked a bit run but easy to the first bolt and above the climbing looked a bit thiner than the first pitch but good.

2 raps from chain anchors with a 60.  Rapping to the first from the second just made it, watch your ends.

I have to add that there are some poorly placed bolts on this pitch.  The location is ok but boy are they crooked.

Description

Protection

Routes in East Tower