The route starts on the right side of the west face:

Pitch 1. Start by climbing 15' up a left facing off-width chimney to gain a ledge. Then up 15' of thin fingers with a couple of face holds to pass the crux (10b), from there the crack turns into a nice hand crack for another 80'. Bolt belay.

Pitch 2. Head left past some loose rock, then up a wide crack, setting up a belay after 50', slightly left of the crack to avoid any loose rock from the next pitch. Can be combined with the next pitch.

Pitch 3. Continue up the wide hand crack going through a bulge then it opens up to a chimney that leads to Defecation Ledge. (11a) 2 Bolt Belay

Pitch 4. Squeeze through to the South face traversing right to a semi rotten crack that gets solid after 5'. Clean aid (or free) up a #3 metolious size crack which becomes wide before it ends. Clip a bolt above the end of the crack. Continue on aid up the left side of the South face, moving up and right,using a mixture of cam placements, hooking, a 1/2" angle, and a knifeblade, to where it gets blank. Then follow four more bolts with drilled pecker holes in between (a cheater stick may be useful, we were short on bolts & time) to gain the ledge just 6' below the summit rock. 2 Bolt belay

Boulder to the top! 3 Double rope rappels.

Amazon Tower - Original Route

Four Peckers and an Amazon

This route takes off from the notch between the tower and the main wall. IT starts with a 90 foot seam, followed by broken free climbing to the summit.

The aid seem is perfect for peckers and thin pins (at the moment). We only had 4 of such, so we were forced to do like 15-25 feet of  climbing (occasional other gear) then place a bolt, lower and clean, and repeat the process. That said, there are like 4 bolts on the first pitch to break up the seem. It could be done on nothing but peckers, but the worst rock is at the very top so, well, wear a hat!

The very last moves of the second pitch require heavy use of the teetery block seen on the right side of the summit in Brads video. Its a bit disconcerting. Again, wear a hat and try not to piss it off.

P1 = Directly across from  the rappel climb the seem to a ledge that has two bolts. ONe bolt is bad... it went in funky. Sorry. IT can be backed up.

P2 = Climb up and left past a bolt to a very committing (ankles away) slab move. Like 9+ or 10-, but a bit soft and with ramifications. Follow a corner, traverse across the ledge, climb through some choss and up an arete to the teetery block. We had a name for it that hopefully Brad can remember. Pull real hard to get past the thing onto the summit ledge.

You have to do a boulder problem to actually top out, then reverse it to get back to the rappel/tyrolean ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Amazon Tower