History

It is possible that an indirect ascent was first made in the 1920s by Norman Clyde, Hervey Voge and David Brower, but according to Secor, the first known direct ascent was on Aug 23, 1977 by Sheari Taylor and John Vawter.

Overview and Editorial Commentary

The route is asthetic, long, and climbed infrequently.  On my first attempt I found the rock to be more grainy and crumbly than the rock that is found on more popular BCS routes like the N and NE Aretes.  Our nerves were rattled after having soloed half the ridge, so we rapped off early (trip report

here

).  Four years later I returned to complete the route alone.

Route Details

Gain the ridge at one of the notches between Peppermint Peak and BCS.  There are several from which to choose of varying rock quality and difficulty.  Depending on your downclimbing ability and preferences you may rap some of the notches.  None of the downclimbs felt harder than ~5.5.  There are many ways to go, but overall the routefinding was not difficult.

Climb the narrow arete to the top of a prominent square tower (5.8). Pass a number of gendarmes on mostly class 4 rock.  Above another small notch climb a steep headwall (5.8).  Secor grades this section as A0.  Having stared at this section I wouldn't completely disagree. It is also possible to climb the face on the right side of the tower. The rest of the ridge is picket fence type climbing.  Expect a few class 5 moves but it is mostly 4th. Follow it to the summit boulder.

East Arete

Northeast Ridge

North Arete

An excellent scramble on solid granite, with spectacular views along the summit ridge.

Start at the low point on the ridge (Peppermint Pass) and follow its crest, at first low angle, pass  the large tower on the left and begin to climb steeper rock, using whatever weakness you can find, generally stay left of the ridge itself (which is soon joined by the North Arete). Below the summit ridge the rock is quite steep and you may want to use a rope. Gain the summit ridge and follow it to the required summit mantle.

A fine alpine rock climb with a wonderful prospect over Little Lakes Valley.

P1 5.6. Snowline dependent, cracks in slabs to a ledge where it gets steeper.

P2 5.8. Steep flake crack on the left to a ledge.

P3 5.7. Up and right over flakes to where the arete relents a little. Route-finding can be tricky.

P4/5 Easy 5th. Up the crest of the arete in a wonderful position to a ledge below the final impasse, a steep off-width crack.

P6 5.8 crux. The crack awkwardly.

P7 Easy 5th. Tunnel through to the other side of the ridge.

To finish, join with the Northeast Ridge and follow it to the top, or it might be more in keeping with the rest of the route to doggedly stay on the very crest of the ridge/arete to the summit. Either will deposit you on the crest of the summit ridge and just excellent and scenic scrambling/climbing for a pitch or two.

Don't forget to mantle onto the summit block!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bear Creek Spire