Conquer the confusing crux around the first bolt then get a good stance where you can clip the second bolt off a small ridge in the rock. Get your feet onto these small ridges and race the pump left on small in-obvious holds before pulling a final technical move right before the anchor.

Better Latte Than Never

Clunky

Funky

Java Creek

Dopio

The Butter

Float up the first 15 feet to a good stance where you can clip a bolt high above your head off large jugs. Pull over the beta-intensive bulge and clip into the anchors.

Pull off the ground by stemming off the wall to your left. Move up easy ground clipping two bolts as you go. From here, stem your way through the crux bulge and mantle onto the ledge below the anchors.

Clamber up a confusing sequence in the vicinity of the first bolt. There are a lot of hidden holds here, it just takes some endurance to be able to look for them on marginal feet. Clip the second bolt and chalk up before continuing up the awesome face above.

The crux is below you, just survive the pump and you'll be at the anchor in no time.

Using sidepulls and small feet clamber onto the crimpy face above the second bolt and launch up the steepening headwall on jugs.

From the small terrace at the far left end of the wall, clamber straight up the questionable rock to the first bolt. Clip a longer quickdraw or sling to this to reduce drag.

From here, conduct the mental crux of this route by stepping up and left to the large crack and either strenuously clip the 2nd bolt before getting established in the crack or pull some hairy moves and get solidly seated in the crack and then clip the bolt.

Look down and notice the sudden appearance of 100 feet of exposure directly below you. Cry a little, like me, if you feel the need.

Jam up the awesome crack and clip the third bolt before conducting spicy moves out a small roof to get the fourth bolt. Beware the large horn sticking out. I stepped on it but cannot guarantee that it will hold a lot of weight and it is poised directly above your belayer tethered into the anchor on the terrace below. From here, avoid barndooring out into the void and reach up off sidepulls to the less-than-positive top and clip.

Now you can feel safe.

This route would be completely classic if only there was less bird poo/feathers in the crack, but this is rock climbing. If you don't like the outdoors, go to a gym.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Caveman Wall