Climbs coast to coast and finish’s on bulletproof Monk. Crux is a big throw off decent holds to a jug. 12d/13a?

Monkfest

First Blood

Trench Warfare

Minnowmaker

Bejing

Praise the Lowered

Still Too Weak

Oboe

Dihedral Route

Dwarf's dilema

The Big Brawl

Unknown 5.11a??

Chinese Connection

Bio-Fest

Organ Grinder

Crimpfest

Slugfest

Praise the Minnow

Unknown to Dihedral Anchors

Blackout

Super Tweak

Gang of Four

Sportfest

Floodfest

Coast to Coast

Moratorium

Blank Out

Secret Sharer

Bolt Ladder Extension

Shadowboxin'

Tweak

The Bassoon

Around the World

Bolt Ladder

Unknown

Viable Option

Vulcan Crawl

Train-Fest

Fight Club

lost for words

Shanghai

Climb Coast to Coast into the short dihedral above the second major crack system/kneebar.  Clip the draw before the second kneebar on coast and make way to the dihedral/roof.

Interesting crack and lay-back climbing leads to technical crux to a series of finishing jugs.

Tricky and beta intensive, Trench Warfare follows a horizontal, left-trending crack using good but difficult to use holds and lots of kneebars.  Although this route follows a crack, there are no jams so you don't need to tape up.

Start by climbing up the white mound at the base of the cave.  An extended V8 boulder problem with a few drilled pockets brings you to better holds and your first kneebar rest.  Keep following the crack, and using kneebars until you are below the final bulge.  Big pulls and awkwardly facing holds get you into a steep corner and to the chains.

Stewart Green calls this a "Technical Masterpiece" in the Climbing Utah book.  Delicate face climbing up perfect limestone for 90 feet. 10 Bolts to 2 bolt anchor. a 60m rope is needed to lower off.

Easier terrain through the first three bolts leads to a huge jug.  From the jug to the first 'ledge' it's on.  Fun tension moves lead to a cruxy sequence of crimps and welcome jugs in a spacey feeling section near the ledge.  Rest on the ledge for a big move near the top.

Great line on the "slabby" part of the China Wall! Actually, this line is pretty much vertical with sections of gently overhanging stone, so don't expect a slab climb!  This route doesn't have many sharp holds - they are pretty kind on the skin.  The climbing involves difficult face maneuvers with reachy moves, lots of sidepulls, and tricky feet.Praise the Lowered is well protected but not overly so - you will be pulling some cruxes above bolts - the way God intended them to be done!

This is about the 3rd line right of "Gang of Four" on the vertical wall.  It follows a very obvious black streak up the wall.

One of the cave-dwelling locals over on the steep stuff once told me that this line was well known as the best "slab" route to do at the China Wall.  I had to agree. Get on it!

Super juggy route with a hard move near the top.  This route is easy 12, and is the standard warm up route at this crag.Really fun and totally worthwhile, either as a warmup or as an objective all of it's own.

Pretty obvious jug haul on the far right side of the cave.

This crack is located between Gang of Four.and another unknown route just left of Minnow Maker.

Size ranges from thin fingers to wide hands, and involves a good amount of stemming. Just before the obvious crux there are some nice pockets on the left face to make your placement. I ran the crux out (not recommended) but there is a bomber spot for a red c4.

If you've never done a chimney climb before and you're sick of screaming as you hang from dime edges... take a break and abuse your whole body on this fun chimney.

Not really sure of the rating on this one.  It felt kind of difficult.  Maybe 5.10c-5.11a??  Who knows?  The crux is from the 3rd bolt all the way to the end.  The moves are thin and tricky.

Climb through the vulcan roof and finish on crimpfest.  Fun link up!

Climb coast to coast and then straight up the last bolted line (Moratorium).  After coast, the route is mostly great feeling two finger pockets. Fun route.

Climb the crack to the Vulcan roof ( large pocketed steep roof above the Oboe boulder).  Traverse to the Oboe kneebar (first large crack system).  Finish on the oboe.

Crux comes midway through the Vulcan roof.  Fight the pump to the end.  Super fun movement!

Climb coast to coast until heading straight up at the first kneebar/crack system past Oboe.  The crux is an awesome 4-5 move boulder problem off of Coast to Coast. Afterwards, continue straight up on relatively easy climbing.

The guide book rates it at 13b, while people rate it anywhere from 12d-13b if you care.  Height dependent?

Start on the big juggy rail at the end of the Super Tweak boulder problem.  Traverse left four bolts before heading up and left following a dihedral of sorts.  Finish on Crimpfest.

Brilliant route with excellent movement.

Fun route and an easy warm-up for the area.  Climbs the Unknown 5.11c just right of the dihedral route at the far right edge of the cave up to the no-hands rest ledge, then traverses left to the anchors of the dihedral route.  Crux seemed to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolts where it is a bit thinner.  Fun easy, but still kind of techy route.

Start on the Tweak jug and go straight up and right to the Oboe anchors. Watch your tendons as it can involve lunging into a mono before going right.

The first .14B in America. Do the V9 boulder problem into Tweak, but finish directly up the headwall into another V9.

The easiest route on the China Wall Cave.  This route is kind of interesting and worth doing if you are there.  The bolts are a bit spaced out.

Go to the far right side of the cave and climb up and then traverse left.The route is not steep at all but it does trend up along the contour of the cave, so your feet are perched just above open air - kind of nice position.

Now go do something hard!

Start Coast-to-coast and take the second to last exit (between moratorium and sportfest).  Longest finish in the cave?

Hard moves off coast lead to technical runout terrain above.

Start at the base of Oboe (obvious 5.12 on the far right side of the cave) and traverse all the way across the cave to the left.Super juggy - how can it be so hard?  Well, it is steep, and the jugs are slippery, and some of the movement between them is downright weird.

If you are up to do a traverse, this is really cool.  Of course, it is imperative that you make sure that Yuji or Francois or somebody isn't going up Super Tweak or one of the other caver routes, or they will be irritated that you are hogging the whole crag.

Do Blank Out but continue straight up the headwall (left most line of bolts).  A reachy move leaving Coast to Coast may present problems depending on your height.

A well designed route involving fun gymnastic moves on big holds.  Finishes on Coast to Coast anchors.

Shares the same start as Oboe up to the crack. From the crack follow the first set of pre hung draws to the right. Using small crimps and a mono you'll pull yourself onto the head wall for a techy finish to the anchors.

Extends 4 bolts + anchors at the finish off of bolt ladder. feels just like the climbing on bolt ladder just longer and some bigger moves.

"Allow me to demonstrate the skill of Shaolin / The special technique of shadowboxing"

Shadowboxin' is a mixed route in the cave. Climb the first four bolts of Blank Out/Moratorium and then break left in the obvious roof crack. A little dusty  and a little spicy up top. Trad limestone in the cave...what do you expect?

There was once a few bolts here but the line was never finished and the bolts were pulled. Apparently it was poorly manufactured and then got chopped from what I've heard.

Aid or jump to the big jug on the right side of horizontal roof (which ends the V9 boulder problem start).  Traverse up and left through two bolts.  Climb straight up past three more bolts. Continue up to 'Coast to Coast' and finish on 'Crimp Fest'.

This route is mostly big moves on pretty good holds with a devious start along the lip (bolts 2-3).  I'm guessing the grade is height dependent and a few moves are easier for taller folks.

Start on the ticked large incut jug for your left hand and the 2-3 finger pocket for your right hand.  You may need some blocks to reach the starting holds.  Make a huge throw for a pocket and climb straight up and finish on Oboe.

Start on the Vulcan crawl (horizontal pocketed roof to the left of the crack, climb the crack to the roof).  Climb the Vulcan roof into the Oboe knee bar (first crack system).  Continue to the finish of Coast to Coast.

The crux comes midway through the roof (after Vulcan Crawl veers out to the face).  The sequence through the roof is excellent.  Fight the pump to a plethora of different finishes.

Hardest move is to the jug at the anchors

This is first bolted line right of the cave. The route heads straight up on side pulls and crimps before gaining a no hands rest ledge. A few moves puts you into a right trending corner for three bolts and finishes on a thin face (crux).

Stopping at the ledge there is a set of chains to the left that makes for a nice warm up. 5.10 range.

Fun, short, overhanging climb that leaves you with a slight pump.  The crux is trying to figure out how to clip the 4th bolt (it isn't very intuitive, and you don't need to use the small sloper/crimp).

Starting to the the right side of the vulcan roof (horizontal roof right of the main cave overhang) it goes up and out left in the roof for 10 feet or so through cool pockets then up onto the technical face above using the 'vulcan hold'

Contrived?  Yes.

Make take the claim as the silliest route at China Cave.  Climb Coast To Coast To Coast To Oboe.  Kneebars, etc.

Climb The Big Brawl straight up into the Monkfest finish. The cleanest variation of the line.

Starts on the jug to the left of trench warfare climbs out drilled pockets and finish’s on Coast to Coast anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in China Cave Main