a short finger jam crux leads to easier hand jamming above

Start Trundling

Planetary Motion

Falling Rock

Silky Stones

Stop Trundling

Bouncing Rock

Thigh Master (aka Rolling Rock)

Stop Grumbling

False False Smooth as Silk

Silkworm

Smooth as Silk

Wilma Rubble

False Smooth as Silk

Fun stemming up an overhanging corner (crux) leads to a wide crack above

Planetary Motion starts in a short, steep hand crack, goes up a low angle, knobby slab and then snakes right, then left, around a bulging headwall to finish on a high thin crack.

Start at the base of the

Stop Trundling

corner. Climb the left-slanting, overhanging finger crack up the wall just left of the corner. Above, go up and left to the

Smooth as Silk

anchor or join

Stop Trundling

to the top.

Start at the base of the chimney as for the reasonable start to

Smooth as Silk

. Climb the chimney about 15 feet, then climb an obvious crack in a shallow right-facing corner. At the top of the corner, go up and left (as for the

Rolling Rock

) to the

Smooth as Silk

anchor.

Rap with a 50m or longer rope from the communal anchor.

Start just down and left of the base of the

Start Trundling

corner.

Climb the short, varnished face with one bolt just left of the

Falling Rock

finger crack.

Climb a fun, awkward start (face, stem) to a thin crack (right hand) below the first bolt.  Protect the crack, then step up and clip the first bolt.  Try to resist the A0 moves that follow.  Get established in the shallow face bowl leading to the second bolt, clip that rig, then up.  Fun!

This is an enjoyable, easy climb about 30' right of False Smooth as Silk.

Smooth as Silk can be divided into two distinct sections. The lower section involves bouldery moves off the ground to a short hand traverse before easing off into a lower angle slab. The upper section ascends a splitter finger crack up a very smooth, relatively low angle slab. A small scoop at the base of this second section complicates getting onto the slab and provides the crux of the route.

Smooth as Silk is located around the corner from the Freeway Wall, on the end of the buttress that faces the road. The upper slab is plainly visible from the car as you approach the parking area on the Lost Horse Road. A short boulder scramble gets you to the base.

The first half of this route is a nice finger/hand crack with good pro. The second half is a loose & gravely 5.1.

This is a long, non-sustained crack and face

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Freeway Wall