One Nut Wonder is the name I gave to the major West Face couloir on Telegraph Peak. It starts near Cedar Glen, goes up an avy path, and steepens at the crux, which could be iced up (much easier and more fun), or dry.

Above the short crux is a runnel of low angle ice. The couloir opens up to a wide snow gully up to 45 or 50 degrees or so (no fancy science here), which then terminates near the south summit.

The views are really special. The San Gabes are where my soul belongs, and when I'm climbing this route I soak in some of the best views I've ever seen.

The name was given when I took several falls on the crux on a dry year following Alex F. I smashed one of my testicles repeatedly in my BD Alpine Bod harness. The crux was protected by a single nut.

One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m

Northwest Face II AI2-3, 400M

The Cool Fun Route

There are a handful of lines going up the NWF. There isn't much different about any of them from a climbing perspective, thus one page for the face.

This is mostly a steep snow climb, but if you know conditions and the mountain well enough, you can get some ice and some easy (if terrifying) mixed climbing in on terrible rock.

Despite rockfall being an obvious concern, the NWF chucks a lot less down than Baldy Bowl does. I've been up this face dozens of times and never been hit by rockfall, which is something special.

TCFR takes the gully and ridge on the right side of Telegraph's West Face above Cedar Glen Campground, near Icehouse Canyon. This route offers fun easy climbing up a gully, transitioning to a ridge partway up to avoid bushes. The views are great and the climbing fun and easy. It tops out on the seldom visited southern summit of Telegraph, which has some of the best views in the range. You look down into Icehouse Canyon, the north side of Ontario and Cucamonga, as well as out to the city. Really cool position.

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Routes in Telegraph Peak